Wednesday, July 17, 2024

Why Nematodes Can be “Good” or “Bad” for your Garden

Entomopathogenic Nematodes

Ever heard of a
NEMATODE?
 
You might be more familiar with their colloquial name, which is roundworm. For the purposes of this post, we’ll refer to this creature as a nematode going forward but know that nematodes and roundworms are the same creature. Nematodes are found all over the world and are classified as extremophiles, which means that they have the ability to survive in climates such as polar deserts, the deep biosphere, and inside animal intestines! Wikipedia even lists a species of nematode (Caenorhabditis elegans) as being able to survive atmospheric descent back to Earth’s surface. 

Even though nematodes have a wide variety of quirks and interesting characteristics, you don’t need to make your way to the Arctic Circle to observe these creatures. Nematodes can be found in your backyard—millions per square yard of soil—and they’re commonly divided into two categories: beneficial and harmful nematodes. If you want to keep things simple, good and bad nematodes will also work. 

“Good” Beneficial Nematodes - 

AKA “Entomopathogenic Nematodes


  • Entomopathogenic defines an organism that infects and causes disease to insects. 

Courtesy of BASF
You may be asking how is that a good thing? Fortunately for gardeners and growers, beneficial nematodes primarily target a multitude of soil-based plant pests as their hosts! These nematodes will parasitize and/or kill insects that are harmful to plants and they are considered non-toxic to humans and pets!

There are various species of entomopathogenic nematodes that exhibit different behaviors and pest insect preferences and have been studied in detail for their use against plant pests in agriculture for many years. Because of all of this research supporting their positive impact, the great news for you is that they are commercially reared and available for you to use in your own garden! 

Using beneficial nematodes to control unwanted plant pests reduces the need for
chemical pesticides, which in turn eliminates the frequent harmful byproducts found in commercial pesticides that can cause lasting environmental damage. 

Beneficial nematodes are effective against over 200 common pest insects including grubs, fleas, fungus gnats, beetles, weevils and more! To determine what type is most effective for the pests you are dealing with, you can read this pest selection guide!

“Bad” Nematodes – 

AKA “phytopathogenic Nematodes


  •       Phytopathogenic defines an organism that is parasitic to plants. 


Harmful nematodes, such as root knot nematodes (Meloidogyne incognita) and cyst nematodes (Glob Odera pallida), are notorious for their damaging effects on plants. These nematodes invade plant roots, causing galls and lesions that disrupt nutrient and water uptake. Once infested by the parasitic nematode, the plant will have stunted growth and will begin yellowing. 

Parasitic infections aren’t the only negative effect certain species of harmful nematodes can have on your plants. For example, the root-lesion nematodes of the Pratylenchid genus are known to carry fungal pathogens that cause root rot. As the nematode feeds on the plant’s roots, entry points are created for root rot pathogens. While the overall effects of parasitic and disease-carrying nematodes both result in plant death, disease-carrying nematodes attack plants on two fronts: the physical damage to the plant from root eating and the damage caused by diseases entering the damaged root system. 

What about me? There are nematode species like AscarisTrichinella, and hookworms that can infect humans and livestock, but they are very different from the kind that are available for commercial pest control use. These malignant nematodes primarily target and inhabit the intestines of animals causing symptoms ranging from mild gastrointestinal discomfort to severe malnutrition and organ damage. The nematodes discussed above in this post are all species that are harmful to either plants or insects, and they pose no known risks to humans and animals and can be applied without concern near homes, pets and children!

 

By Robin @ ARBICO Organics

Wednesday, July 10, 2024

Caterpillar & Moth Control

If you think of caterpillars, your thoughts might quickly shift to butterflies. And generally, we all like butterflies! 

  • They’re pretty, they’re pollinators, and if you have children, it can be a great experience to monitor a chrysalis to see when a butterfly emerges. 
  • The types of caterpillars that become butterflies are welcome in any garden. 
However, there are also caterpillars that become moths! 
Tomato Hornworm

Many of these caterpillars have voracious appetites and will quickly eat through your plant leaves if left uncontrolled. 



Normally, if you’re dealing with clothes or pantry moths, the first thing to do is to put the infected items into a deep freeze (or into the trash if the moths have gotten into your food) then do a deep cleaning. However, when you’re dealing with garden moths and caterpillars, these methods no longer work. Freezing your garden will kill all of your plants, and any type of plant “cleaning” will likely cause a degree of chemical damage to the plant. 

Instead, your best bet is to fight insects with beneficial insects. The beneficial insect in question is the Trichogramma wasp.
 
Before we get into the details of Trichogramma, it’s important to clarify that while they are wasps, they are quite different from yellowjackets and other stereotypical wasps. Trichogramma have no interest in humans, and they cannot sting. Instead, these minute insects, barely visible to the naked eye, are a type of parasite that exclusively targets the eggs of moths and butterflies. A single female Trichogramma can lay its eggs inside hundreds of moth eggs, effectively stopping the next generation of caterpillars before they hatch and wreak havoc on your plants. 

Here’s a quick breakdown of the reasons why Trichogramma wasps are the ideal choice for managing and maintaining moth populations.

A Selective Predator:
Unlike chemical pesticides that can harm beneficial insects and pollinators, Trichogramma only prey on moth eggs. They pose no threat to humans, pets, or even the plants themselves, making them an eco-friendly choice. We said this in the previous paragraph, but we’ll repeat it once more: Trichogramma cannot sting. 

Not a Limited Solution:
By interrupting the moth reproductive cycle at the egg stage, Trichogramma releases provide long-term suppression of caterpillar populations. Regular releases throughout the growing season can help establish a self-sustaining population of these tiny guardians in your garden. ARBICO Organics offers capsule dispensers that will automatically release Trichogramma over a 2 week period.

Effective Against Multiple Moth Species:
Deploy Trichogramma wasps against a vast array of moth and butterfly pests, including cabbage loopers, tomato hornworms, codling moths, and more.

Easy to Use:
This was mentioned in a previous point, but we’ll reiterate the ease of deploying Trichogramma 
wasps. The bugs are available in card and dispenser formats. Place both items around your garden, and combine them with pheromone lures that will bring moth populations to the Trichogramma. 


Won’t Break Your Wallet: 
Compared to the ongoing expense of chemical pesticides, Trichogramma can be a cost-effective solution, especially for long-term pest control.

Robin @ ARBICO Organics

Tuesday, July 2, 2024

Thrips – How to Protect Your Plants from These Quiet Destroyers


Tube-Tailed Thrips (Phlaeothripidae) in the Center of a Hibiscus Flower
Thrips are tiny, silent plant suckers that can become highly destructive to a garden or greenhouse if left unchecked. Despite their small size, they can do quite a bit of damage as they feed on the more tender parts of plants, including buds, flowers, and new leaves. 

However, not all thrips species are bad. Some can be beneficial, such as preying on other thrips, spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies.

This article aims to provide a comprehensive guide on managing and preventing thrips infestations in an eco-friendly manner.

In this article, you will learn:
    • The life cycle of thrips and their impact on plants.
    • Early detection techniques for better thrips control.
    • Effective strategies to manage and prevent thrips infestations.
Let’s begin by exploring the life cycle of thrips, which is key to effective management.

  Identification and Life Cycle  

Even though thrips are small, they can still be easily identified. They have a uniquely thin body and sometimes have frail-looking wings with feathery fringes. Identifying species can be extremely difficult, but the host plant can often help determine what species of thrips you are dealing with. Even though thrips are hemimetabolous insects, meaning their larval stages look similar to their adult form, they still have four distinct stages:

Egg Stage: 
Thrips Larva
Thrips lay their eggs inside plant tissue, which makes them difficult to detect. The microscopic eggs can be found within the leaves, buds, and stems. 

Larval Stages: 
After hatching, the larvae immediately feed on plant cells. They are usually white or yellow. 

Pupal Stage: Before becoming adults, thrips enter a pupal stage. This stage often occurs in the soil or hidden within plant debris, making it easy for them to go unnoticed. Some species of thrips will create a cell from silk webbing and pupate inside the cell.

Adult Stage: Adult thrips are mobile and can quickly spread to other plants. They reproduce rapidly, laying more eggs and perpetuating the cycle. Depending on the season and environmental factors, they are both winged and wingless versions of adults.
 
  Damage and Symptoms  

Thrips Damage
Thrips cause damage by piercing plant cells and sucking out their contents. Because
their damage often looks like nutrient deficiencies, the underlying cause can go unnoticed, prolonging the damage and stunting growth.


Silvering of Leaves:
As thrips feed, they create silvery or bronze streaks on the leaves, eventually leading to browning and death of the leaf tissue.

Deformed Flowers and Fruits: Thrips feeding on buds and flowers can cause them to deform and grow abnormally, reducing the aesthetic and market value of ornamental plants and fruits.

Stunted Plant Growth: Heavy infestations can stunt plant growth, leading to poor plant health and reduced yields.

Physical Evidence: Besides visual damage, you might notice tiny black fecal spots on the leaves, another indicator of thrips presence.
 
  Monitoring and Trapping  

It’s important to stay vigilant when it comes to inspecting your plants. If you are bringing new plants to your greenhouse or garden, carefully check them for any existing thrips infestations.

You can also use blue or yellow sticky cards to monitor for signs of thrips. Thrips are attracted to these colors and will get stuck on the glue.
 
  Biological Controls  

Leveraging natural predators and beneficial insects can help keep thrips populations in check:

Predatory Mites: Introduce predatory mites, such as Amblyseius cucumeris or Amblyseius swirskii, which feed on thrips larvae. For best results, release before thrips become a serious issue as establishment can take 6-8 weeks.

Natural Predators: By creating suitable habitat for natural predators, you can keep thrips from exploding in growth. Lacewing larvae, minute pirate bugs, and ladybugs are voracious predators of thrips. Release them into your garden or greenhouse to control thrips naturally.

Beneficial Nematodes: To disrupt thrips in the soil, use nematodes to interrupt reproduction and reduce local populations.
 
  Organic Insecticides  

When necessary, use organic insecticides to manage thrips populations. Some effective options include:

Neem Oil: Neem oil disrupts the growth and reproduction of thrips. Apply neem oil as a foliar spray to target both adults and larvae. It can be used before releasing beneficial insects and suppresses foliar diseases like powdery mildew.

Insecticidal Soaps: Insecticidal soaps can effectively reduce thrips populations by suffocating them. Ensure thorough coverage of the plant, especially the undersides of leaves.

Pyrethrin-Based Products: Pyrethrins are natural insecticides derived from chrysanthemum flowers. They are effective against thrips but should be used sparingly to minimize impact on beneficial insects.

Azadirachtin: This spray works like neem oil and can be combined with pyrethrin. Use as a thrips control spray for severe infestations.

PFR-97: This insect-killing fungus has shown great results in controlling thrips and other soft-bodied insects, especially in greenhouses or indoors. It poses minimal risks to beneficial insects and is compatible with most other pesticides.

Thrips can be silent yet destructive pests in your garden or greenhouse. Understanding their lifecycle and impact is the first step toward effective management. By implementing eco-friendly strategies, you can control and prevent thrips infestations while maintaining a healthy garden environment.

By staying vigilant and employing these techniques, you can keep thrips at bay and enjoy a thriving garden all season long.

From Grant @ ARBICO Organics

Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Focusing on Drought Resistance Products for a Changing World

The world is getting hotter, and water is getting scarcer. US government agencies, such as the NCEI and NOAA, have declared that 2023 was the hottest average global temperature on record, with records dating back to 1850. 

Much of the American West faces water shortages, with important freshwater sources such as Lake Mead and the Colorado River being measured at record lows.

While it’s easy to feel like the world is changing in ways that are out of your immediate control, don’t let this keep you from finding peace in your garden. Don’t worry, we get it. Progress has been made to combat the effects of climate change, but these noticeable differences in our climate are here to stay. 

So even if you’re dealing with water rationing or prolonged periods of above average heat, there are ways to reduce drought stress on your plants. In our changing world, water is a powerful resource. Support your plants by giving them the tools to use water more efficiently and withstand environmental stressors.


LALSTIM OSMO

LALSTIM OSMO is an osmoprotectant that helps plants withstand drought conditions by improving their drought resistance. “OSMO” is derived from osmosis, which is the passive movement of water molecules from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration through a semipermeable membrane. If you hated high school biology, don’t worry. Here’s the practical definition when it comes to gardening. If your plants are in drought conditions, water will naturally be drawn from your plant’s cells into the atmosphere because there is more water in your plant than in the surrounding air. 

Osmoprotectants such as LALSTIM OSMO increase the survival rate of plants in drought conditions by regulating the osmotic activity in the cell and allowing the plant to retain more water. Current research aims to create plants that will produce their own osmoprotectants through gene editing, but for now you’ll have to add osmoprotectants to your plants by spraying them with LALSTIM OSMO.

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.



Hydretain®

This is a product that is applied directly to the roots of your plants. Spray it into the soil, and then water to force the Hydretain down towards the roots. This product optimizes the intake of water by your plant’s root system through proprietary humectants (substances that attract water), which minimizes drought stress. 

Hydretain first found use in large scale farms and golf courses where cutting water costs would save farmers and golf course owners significant amounts of money. Now, this product is finding a niche with small-scale growers and hobby gardeners who wish to reduce their water usage due to local shortages or just for the sake of being good environmental stewards.

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.



Mikro-H2O

Like all of the products on this list, Mikro-H2O deals with managing water intake and helping your plants cope with an ever-warming world. 
What sets Mikro-H2O apart is its use of rhizobacteria to assist with water management. 

Rhizobacteria are commonly known for their nitrogen fixing capabilities, converting gaseous nitrogen into ammonia, and making necessary nitrogen accessible to plants. However, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens and Bacillus subtilis, the two types of rhizobacteria used in Mikro-H2O, also build biofilm around the root zone.This biofilm increases the surface area of the plant's root structure, which leads to improved water structure, less evaporation, improved nutrient availability, and reduced fertilizer drainage. 


Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.


Therm X-70®


Have you heard of the Mojave yucca?

This plant is native to the deserts of Southwest America. It survives in this harsh, dry climate through the use of saponin, which helps plants overcome water stress and increases the “stickiness” of applied fertilizers. Sometimes, the best way to help the plants in your garden adapt to dry and stressful conditions is to mimic plants that have evolved to live in deserts. 

Therm X-70 increases permeability in heavy clay soil while also reducing salt and alkalinity levels. If you’re panicking because your plants already are showing signs of heat damage, applying Therm X-70 to the stressed areas can yield immediate, noticeable results and put your garden on a path to recovery.

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.

From Robin @ARBICO Organics

Friday, May 17, 2024

Squash Vine Borers – The Best Hide and Seek Players in Your Garden

Squash Vine Borer Larva
Squash vine borers have figured out how to drive gardeners and growers crazy. Their sneaky and hidden ways can devastate all your squash plants before you realize it’s too late. Even when you realize you have a problem, they are already inside the stems of your squash plants, and there is little you can do to save your plants.

However, there is hope in preventing them from destroying this year’s bounty of squash. This article offers proven, eco-friendly methods to prevent these pests from ruining your squash crops.

We’ll learn more about:
  • The life cycle of squash vine borers
  • Effective strategies to keep them out of our squash
  • Early detection techniques for better management

Let’s begin by exploring the life cycle of squash vine borers, which is key to effective management.

Squash Vine Borer: Lifecycle and Impact

Identification and Lifecycle

Adult Squash Vine Borer
Adults are colorful moths that emerge from the soil in the end of spring. The moths have metallic green forewings and clear hindwings that are often folded and tucked away when they land.

Females will lay their eggs in early spring at the base of squash plants. Approximately one week later, these eggs hatch, and the larvae immediately burrow into the plant stems. Inside, they begin consuming the core, disrupting water flow and causing the leaves to wilt. Severe damage can result in the death of the plant.

After feeding for 4-6 weeks, the squash vine borer drills a hole out of the stem, and will pupate in the soil. It stays in its cozy cocoon until the next spring or summer. Most squash vine borers will only have one generation each year. However, populations in the south can often have two.

Damage and Symptoms

Squash Vine Borer Damage

It’s often hard to tell that you have a problem, until the damage is done. The biggest sign is that your squash plants are all-of-sudden wilting. This will begin happening in full sun, and if the problem isn’t corrected, you should see the wilting in the mornings too.

Look for bore holes at the base of plants, along with sawdust-like frass (or insect feces). The base of the plant may start to rot or feel soft. If you notice these symptoms, then you need to start treatment options and prevention for next year’s squash.



Eco-friendly Methods to Control Squash Vine Borer Populations

It can seem daunting to prevent or kill squash vine borers. However, with a few proactive strategies, you can keep your squash in full production for longer.

Monitoring and Trapping

Before you start planning out your treatment strategies against squash vine borers, it’s important you know you have a problem first. Begin by setting out pheromone traps for adult moths. These lures can also be helpful in reducing the number of eggs laid on your squash plants. It’s also been shown that using pheromone traps can reduce the amount of pesticides used to control squash vine borers.

Exclusion

Sometimes you can’t catch all the female moths ready to lay eggs. However, you can prevent them from getting to your squash plants. Row covers will prevent females from getting access to the base of your plants and prevent them from laying eggs.

You can also wrap the base of each individual plant with aluminum foil or panty house to prevent larvae from burrowing into the stems.

Organic Insecticides

Organic treatments such as spinosad, azadirachtin, and Beauveria bassiana have been used effectively to control squash vine borer populations. These organic insecticides significantly reduce infestation levels, providing a robust defense against squash vine borers while adhering to organic agricultural standards.

However, these are only effective against adult moths and won’t affect larvae once they are inside the squash plant.

Bacillus thuringiensis

Bacillus thuringiensis is a very effective treatment against moth and butterfly pests. You can even use it against larvae that have already dug into a stem. You will need to inject the Bt product into the stem or applied as a foliar spray. This can be an effective way to treat squash vine borers once they are already growing in your plants.  

Nematodes

Another interesting tactic is to target the pupating moths that are in the ground. To do that, you can use a beneficial nematode product. The nematodes will seek out any pupae in the ground and infect them. This is a great way to prevent any new outbreaks of squash vine borer.

Conclusion

Squash vine borers can be tricky to control if you don’t get the timing of their emergence and egg-laying just right. Even if you aren’t 100% effective in stopping egg laying, there are still a few options to keep your squash harvest abundant this year. - Grant @ ARBICO Organics



Wednesday, May 1, 2024

How to Control Grubs - The Sneaky Lawn Pest!

Grubs are the larva of various types of beetles and chafers, such as the Japanese beetle or European chafer. 

You’re likely concerned about them because of the potential damage they can do to your lawn. 

While both grubs and adults can cause damage to your plant, the biggest problem is actually the fact that grubs and chafers are prey for a variety of animals, including moles, skunks, and raccoons. These creatures will tear up your lawn to get to the grubs, quickly turning your grass into a field of potholes.  

Before investing time and resources into curtailing your grub problem, double check

that the issue actually is grubs! 

  • To see if your yard or garden has a grub problem, dig out a section of dirt using a shovel. This should be around 2-inches deep. 
  • Parse through the dirt to discover the white, C-shaped grubs. They’re usually under an inch long. 
  • Finding one grub doesn’t mean that you need to sound the alarm. Grubs and beetles are part of our natural ecosystem after all. However, if you’re finding an overwhelming amount of grubs in your samples, it’s time to take action.  

Nematodes


Nematodes are some of the best biological control agents on the market. They’re effective at eliminating grubs, though they are ineffective against adult beetles. Application of beneficial nematodes is simple. First, make sure that the soil is moist since nematodes require a moist environment. They are applied with the substrate they come in, just mix with water and apply to soil. See this link for more information. Apply the nematodes to the moist soil in the late afternoon. You can use a sprayer or a sprinkler-style watering can to do so. Depending on the severity of the infestation, multiple applications may be needed so continue to monitor for signs of damage and be prepared to reapply if needed.

 

Milky Spore

 

While beneficial nematodes are capable of eliminating a wide variety of insect pests, milky spore is a specific, bacteria-based form of pest control. If you’re using milky spore, you’re focused on getting rid of Japanese beetle grubs. The ideal time for soil application is in late July or early August. This is when the grubs are closest to the surface of the soil and feeding on your plant roots. While they’re biting into roots, the grubs will also ingest milky spore bacteria. Once this happens, the bacteria begin to rapidly multiply, killing the grub within 3 weeks. As the grub decomposes, the multiplying bacteria are released back into the soil to infect new grubs. 

 

Milky spore is very harmful to Japanese beetle grubs, but has no effect on various beneficial insects, household pets, or humans. 

 

Due Diligence

 

Keeping a healthy lawn goes a long way towards eliminating grub infestations and preventing noticeable grub damage. A healthy lawn that receives regular rainfall (or is artificially supplied with water through an irrigation system) will have much stronger roots. Keeping the grass trimmed at 3-4 inches can also strengthen the root system of your grass. Cutting grass below 3 inches can cause root stress, which in turn results in a higher susceptibility to grub damage. Of course, a proper fertilizing routine goes a long way too! 

 

Robin - @ ARBICO Organics

 

Wednesday, April 24, 2024

Grasshoppers – How to Protect Your Garden and Farm with Eco-Friendly Tactics

When conditions are right, grasshoppers can unexpectedly become a big problem for growers. But what are your options to effectively control outbreaks?

Let's explore some effective strategies for managing grasshopper populations in your garden or farm without relying on harmful pesticides. In this article, we'll cover:

  • The lifecycle and habits of grasshoppers that make them pests.
  • Natural and eco-friendly methods to control grasshopper populations.

Grasshopper Life Cycle and Their Impact
Grasshoppers are closely related to crickets and katydids. What sets them apart from their jumping cousins is their ability to quickly grow into pest status and destroy forage and crops in farms and gardens. A large part of their threat stems from their eating habits; they can consume half their body weight in plants each day, making them a formidable foe for any grower. 



The lifecycle of a grasshopper plays a crucial 
role in its pest behavior. 
Starting from eggs laid in soil, they progress through several nymph stages before becoming adults. This process can take a few months; the bigger they get, the more damage they do. 

A warm spring and a hot, dry summer are ideal conditions for a boom in a grasshopper population. Dry conditions limit fungal diseases that normally curb their numbers, while warm temperatures accelerate the hatching and growth of nymphs.

Understanding these aspects of grasshopper biology and behavior is key to managing their populations effectively. The sooner actions are taken, the better your chance of minimizing damage. 

Natural and Eco-friendly Grasshopper Control Methods
Several natural and eco-friendly strategies can be employed to manage grasshopper populations effectively while minimizing environmental impact. These methods not only target grasshoppers but also support maintaining the ecological balance in your garden or farm.

Azadirachtin: Extracted from the neem tree, azadirachtin acts as a growth regulator for grasshoppers, disrupting their lifecycle and reducing their ability to reproduce. It's safe for use around beneficial insects and animals, making it an ideal choice for organic gardening and farming. Research has shown that azadirachtin prevents nymphs from shedding their skin and impacts the reproductive organs of males and females. Check out AzaGuard for both repellent and control treatment. 

Pyrethrins: Derived from chrysanthemum flowers, pyrethrins are fast-acting
insecticides that target the nervous system of grasshoppers. They break down quickly in the environment, reducing the risk of long-term residue. A product like 
PyGanic is available as a spray and comes in multiple volumes for the weekend gardener or full-time farmer.
 
Nosema locustae: This naturally occurring microsporidian fungus targets grasshoppers and some locust species. When ingested, it causes a disease that can significantly reduce grasshopper populations. Typically, the spores are added to a wheat bran bait that can be broadcast into an area. The grasshoppers eat the bait, along with the spores. However, products such as NOLO Bait and Semaspore are currently unavailable. The manufacturer's factory burned to the ground, and production is extremely limited. 

Beauveria bassiana: This fungus acts as a biological insecticide by infecting and killing grasshoppers. It's applied as a spore-coated formulation with which grasshoppers ingest or come into contact with. The fungus then grows inside the grasshopper, killing it, and it's particularly useful in managing large populations. Certain strains of the fungus can be more effective on specific species. It's available as a liquid under two product names:  Mycotrol O and Botanigard ES. Or, you can use it in a wettable powder.


Garlic Spray: While research on the effectiveness of a garlic barrier spray is still
lacking, there is a 
study that suggests it not only acts as a repellent but can also kill grasshoppers.
 
Cultural Methods:
  • Prescribed Burns: Carefully managed burns can eliminate grasshopper eggs and reduce plant material that serves as food for nymphs and adults. This method requires precise timing and safety precautions to prevent unintended damage.
  • Mowing: Regular mowing reduces habitat and food sources for grasshoppers, making the area less attractive for them to lay eggs.
  • Trap Crops: Planting trap crops around the perimeter of your main crop can lure grasshoppers away, concentrating them in a specific area where they can be more easily managed with the above methods.

Conclusion

Grasshoppers are a difficult pest to manage, even with traditional pesticide applications. However, it's clear that there are alternative solutions that can be just as effective. Utilizing botanical insecticides, biological controls, and strategic cultural practices offers a sustainable path forward in managing grasshopper populations.  - Grant @ARBICO Organics

Featured Post

Why Nematodes Can be “Good” or “Bad” for your Garden

Entomopathogenic Nematodes Ever heard of a NEMATODE?   You might be more familiar with their colloquial name, which is roundworm. For the p...