7 Great Gift Ideas for the Holidays

The holiday season is here! For many of us in the USA, the growing season is over. Your outside garden may already be covered in snow, and the only green you’re seeing is the Christmas tree you set up in your living room.

Or maybe you’re an animal lover and spend more time worrying about your pets’ Christmas gifts than your own. Whether you’re a dedicated equestrian, a greenhouse grower eager to show off his or her green thumb, or the type of dog owner who has already bought twelve different Christmas sweaters for their dog, check out the 2024 Holiday Gift Guide from ARBICO Organics.

Before the gift recommendations begin, we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention that professionals have standards and products that they trust and have relied on for many years. Purchasing a random bag of fertilizer for a professional grower is not a good gift. For hobbyists, the standards are a bit looser, and they tend to be more open to surprises. Still, if you’re not sure where to begin or have a picky friend, it’s best to fall back on a gift card.

For the Horse Lover

Do you know someone with a ranch or someone that boards horses? 

You’ve likely heard them complain about pests. Flies are abundant in stables, and they’re one of the roughest parts of working around horses. 

If you’ve heard an abundance of pest complaints, check out the innovative ARBICO Organics solar fly trap. Simply set up the trap in an area that receives direct sunlight, then spread the included liquid bait on the inside of the trap. As flies try to get to the bait, they become trapped and are then fried by the sun. There are no batteries or electronics to keep track of. 

Are you looking for something for a casual rider? Pest prevention is still something to keep track of when you have a horse out of the stable. Picking up a bottle of Ecovet Fly Repellent goes a long way to keeping your mount happy during riding sessions.

For the Green Thumb

Do you know someone who is constantly tending to their garden but not composting?

It’s safe to bet that they know what composting is but just feel awkward about starting. One of the biggest roadblocks to starting is, “Where do I put my compost pile?” After all, you can’t just throw a pile of fruit peels, coffee grounds, and cardboard in the middle of your front lawn and call it a day.

The Compost Wizard Jr. solves this issue by providing a simplistic container to store your compost in. 

Want to provide the gardener in your life with a truly unique gift? ARBICO Organics offers in-depth soil analysis for the soil in your garden. This is a gift that you’ll need to work with the recipient to prepare, so it’s not something you can offer as a surprise on Christmas day. You’re required to mail in a collection of soil samples to ARBICO, so we’re imploring you to not sneak onto the recipient’s property to harvest soil samples in order to capture a perfect Christmas moment. More information can be found under the “Instructions” tab on the listing page for soil analysis.


For the Pet Owner

Bug Bam Mosquito Pet Tags 

are a great addition to any dog household!

Once prime mosquito season comes around, simply attach one of the tags to your dog’s collar to prevent pests from burrowing into your furry friend’s fur when you’re going for a walk. Bug Bams only use essential oils to ward off harmful insects and do not contain traces of the harmful chemicals found in certain flea collars. 

Having a dog means that you’re sometimes confronted with uninvited guests in your home after a day spent playing outside. No, we’re not talking about your in-laws unexpectedly showing up while you were taking the dog for a walk. We’re referring to fleas and other pests that can fall off your dog’s coat. Purchasing a pack of Enoz® Trap-N-Kill® Flea Trap is an inexpensive way to keep your home and pets flea-free. Of course, make sure you discuss this with the gift recipient before the presents are opened - you don’t want them assuming that this is some sort of insinuation that their house is flea-ridden.

We hope you stay warm and cozy this winter and keep your plant and animal-loving friends and family happy with our fun and festive gift ideas!

 - Robin @ARBICO Organics

Happy Holidays from ARBICO Organics!

Gourds, the Vegetables That are Actually Fruit!

Are you familiar with gourds? The name refers to a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. Well, “vegetable” technically isn’t true. All gourds are actually fruit, as they are formed from an ovary and contain seeds. Knowing this, we will still refer to some gourds as vegetables throughout this article, as that is the common term for them.

So, we’ve discovered that gourds are technically fruits, but practically vegetables. Let’s get more specific now:

• Gourds refer to the fruit taken from flowering plants in the family Cucurbitaceae which contains 98 genera and about 975 species. 
• This includes gourds that keep the name, like bottle gourds and apple gourds, as well as other vegetables like pumpkins, cucumbers, and squash. 
• There are even traditional fruits in this grouping! Melons like watermelon, honeydew, and cantaloupe are all members of Cucurbitaceae. 
• Finally, some gourds have especially hard shells. These gourds are in a genus called lagenaria, which includes the aforementioned bottle gourd. Once the inside has been removed, the hard shell found in this genus has been repurposed as a water bottle or instrument (think maracas) by humans since early history.

Growing Gourds

When you’re growing gourds, make sure you’re accounting for their long growing season. More common produce like tomatoes and strawberries can be harvested in 70-80 days on average. Gourds routinely take over 100 days to harvest, and it’s not unheard of to take over 120 days. To account for this, make sure that you’re starting seeds inside around 4 weeks before your last frost date.

You’ll also want to ensure that your gourds have a warm growing environment. In the USA, you’ll find gourds grown in southern and southwestern states. Still, gourds are not desert plants. They do not do well in extreme heat and require a steady supply of water to flourish. Gourds, like many plants, thrive in damp soil that is not waterlogged. They especially benefit from liberal amounts of compost and mulch around their growing area. Try to make sure there is at least 4 feet of space (6 feet is ideal) between your gourds to allow room for the vines to spread.

Gourd Use in Human History

After certain types of gourds, like the bottle gourd, are fully mature, the insides can be
scooped out and the shell can be repurposed. It’s estimated that humans have been cultivating gourds for over 10,000 years, using them as a source of food and as an accessory for practical, everyday life to rare ceremonies. Here’s a quick list of some of the more noteworthy uses.

1. Containers: Tupperware and Hydro Flasks haven't been around for all of human history. Gourd shells were a convenient way to store harvested grains, spices, and water, especially when you considered that alternative storage containers were hand woven or taken from animals (sheepskin, animal bladders)

2. Gourds were part of the first musical instruments ever created. Placing seeds or small stones in a dried gourd creates a simple maraca. A large gourd could be cut open, hollowed out, then covered with an animal skin to create a makeshift drum. Music naturally led to religious ceremonies, where gourds could also contain offerings or be used as a bowl to smoke hallucinogenic herbs.

3. Gourds even found a use in fishing! A hollow gourd is naturally buoyant. When attached to the ends of a net, the net will stay afloat in water.

Fun Facts

Interested in learning more about gourds? Get in the fall spirit with some fun facts!

We just mentioned how gourds are buoyant in the last section, which led to them being used in fishing. However, it’s speculated that the bottle gourd was used to getting wet long before humans got the idea to toss it in a river. The bottle gourd has a very durable shell, which allowed it to drift along ocean currents from Africa to Asia and the Americas long before humans established trading networks.

 
1. While the bottle gourd might be originally from Africa, everyone’s favorite harbinger of fall, the pumpkin, is native to North America. Still, pumpkins are a bit misleading. While we love associating them with fall, the pumpkin is technically a type of winter squash. Today, pumpkins are grown on every continent (with the natural expectation of Antarctica).

2. If you were shocked to find out that pumpkins are a winter squash, you’ll be astounded when you realize that jack-o-lanterns were not always associated with pumpkins. Initial jack-o-lanterns were carved in turnips! When Irish immigrants came to America, they found that pumpkins were much easier to work with than turnips, presumably due to the larger surface area of a pumpkin and the harder shell.

3. Jack-o-lanterns take their inspiration from the will-o’-the-wisp, a phenomenon that’s both based in reality and folklore. In reality, a will-o’-the-wisp is caused by the oxidization of swamp gases, which can spontaneously combust and emit light. In European folklore, the will-o’-the-wisp is a wayward spirit that imitates a lantern’s light to lead travelers from safe paths to their doom.

4. Let’s not forget about the distinctly fruity gourds out there. In Japan, watermelons
are often grown in the shape of a cube. While there are some claims that this is the most practical way to grow watermelon floating around the internet, the truth is that this cube shape is just ornamental. In order to maintain its cube shape, a watermelon must be harvested before it is edible. At least it won’t roll off the table when you’re showing it to your friends! See it here!

-Robin @ ARBICO Organics

How to Keep Stink Bugs from Overwintering in Your Home

There's a smell in your house. It's not a very pleasant smell - it reminds you of cilantro and rotting vegetables.

It’s a stink bug, and with the weather getting colder across the USA, stink bugs try to overwinter in residential homes.  

Although stink bugs are a common garden pest known for their ability to chew through a wide variety of common plants, their unpleasant odor makes them unique among pests. 

• Stink bugs can enter diapause, a state of suspended development that allows the bug to wait out the unfavorable seasons. 

• Every fall, stink bugs look for a place to slumber through the winter, and they are particularly fond of modern homes.

• Brown marmorated stink bugs are roughly the size and shape of a large peanut. 

• Alternating light and dark markings on their antennae give them a distinctly “woody” appearance, and their abdomen is easily recognizable, being wider at the back then tapering towards the head. 

• They are able to flatten their bodies in order to squeeze into surprisingly slim gaps, and once a bug has found a cozy corner to hole up for the winter, it will emit a pheromone to attract additional stink bugs to the location. This pheromone is different from the rotting cilantro smell that stink bugs are infamous for. 

• While you won’t hear stink bugs if they are overwintering, they do also emit a distinct buzzing when they fly.

To prevent stink bugs from invading your home, seal any cracks or gaps in your home's exterior, including around windows, doors, and utility pipes. You can also use caulk or weatherstripping to seal these openings. If the stink bugs decide that they like your home, future generations will continue to return every winter if it remains accessible.

Controlling brown marmorated stink bugs can be challenging, but there are several strategies you can employ. It’s also important to note that killing a stink bug will not cause more to appear. There is no death pheromone. However, leaving the bugs alive will result in more showing up due to the pheromones stink bugs emit when they’re in a safe location.

1. Handpicking: While time-consuming, handpicking and disposing of the bugs can be effective for small infestations.
2. Insecticidal Soaps: These soaps can be effective against young nymphs but may not be as effective against adult bugs.
3. Insecticidal Sprays: Pyrethrin-based insecticides can be used to kill adult bugs on contact. Neem Oil is also another good option for dealing with large adult populations.
4. Biological Control: Natural enemies, such as predatory insects, can help to control populations of brown marmorated stink bugs. Encouraging and introducing beneficial insects, such as the assassin bug, in your garden can be a natural way to reduce pest populations. While this method of pest control is great for gardens, it is an obviously poor fit for exterminating stink bugs that have invaded your home.
5. Sticky Traps: Worried the crack you sealed up is actually secure? Try setting out some sticky traps. Adults are likely to fly into them when scouting a place to overwinter - stink bugs are actually somewhat clumsy fliers.

Have more questions? Did you know you can call us at ARBICO Organics to speak directly to a specialists who can share valuable information regarding your specific pests and available solutions? Pick up to the phone and give us a ring! We are in office Monday-Fridays from 8am-4:30pm MST and off evening and weekends. You can reach us at 800-827-2847! 

 - Robin @ ARBICO Organics

Winterizing Your Garden: Key Steps to Stop Pests and Pathogen This Fall

The best time to prepare your garden is right after the growing season ends! 

Getting a head start on pest prevention during the fall and into the winter can do so much for your spring and summer gardens. As winter draws near, overwintering pests may see your garden and greenhouse as a safe haven. But little do they know, you’re about to take the right steps to keep them out this winter.

In this article, we’ll explore:

• How to use beneficial nematodes to reduce overwintering pest populations.

• The importance of soil testing and amending for pest-resistant spring plantings.

• Key strategies for sanitizing, cleaning, and planning pest and disease control.

Let’s explore the essential steps to prepare your garden or greenhouse for winter while promoting long-term pest control and plant health.

 

Using Beneficial Nematodes to Your Advantage

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic worm-like creatures that can seek out and destroy soil-dwelling pests, like pupating grubs, root maggots, and caterpillars. 

Many pests will burrow down into the soil to escape freezing temperatures and will stay there until they emerge as adults in the spring.

These nematodes can be purchased and applied throughout your garden and greenhouse space. However, be sure to read the instructions for proper application. The optimal time to apply them is usually when the soil temperatures are between 42°F – 95°F.

Nematodes are great at targeting and reducing any pupating pests before they settle in for winter. This helps prevent any spring pest outbreaks and helps your plants grow unhindered by pest damage.

To give your nematodes the best conditions to thrive, make sure your soil is moist and you increase the organic matter in the soil with compost and amendments. Check out our FAQs page about nematodes to learn more about how to properly apply them.

 
Soil Testing and Amending for a Pest-Resistant Garden in Spring

A healthy, balanced soil creates healthier, pest-resistant plants. The best time to test your soil health is during the fall, so you can better understand your nutrient levels, pH balance, and organic matter content. That way, you’ll be able to add the perfect amount of amendments to get your plants off on the right start.

Nutrient deficiencies can lead to stressed plants, which are more susceptible to pests. Conversely, nutrient-rich, well-balanced soil promotes a higher brix level in plants. Higher brix levels create stronger plants, which also makes them less attractive to pests like aphids and caterpillars.

If you’re to boost your soil health after a soil test, consider these amendments:

• Organic matter: Adding compost, manure, or leaf mold helps improve soil structure, encourages beneficial microbes, and increases water retention, all of which promote strong, healthy plant growth.

• Lime or sulfur: Depending on your soil’s pH results, you may need to raise or lower the pH to reach an optimal level for plant growth. Adjusting the pH to the proper range for your crops can reduce the likelihood of nutrient imbalances that attract pests.

• Minerals and fertilizers: If your soil test reveals deficiencies in essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium, adding the appropriate organic fertilizers can help.

By testing and amending your soil in the fall, you’ll be ready for spring planting with the best conditions possible.

 
Prevent and Control Diseases with Biological Agents

Not only should you be preparing and planning for insect pests, but plant diseases and pathogens should be on your mind too.

Plant diseases are often caused by pathogens that can persist in the soil or plant debris through the winter. These pathogens, including fungi, bacteria, and viruses, can be present on dead plant material or in the soil and can easily infect new plants in the spring.

To prevent this, remove and dispose of any diseased or infected plant material.

Clearing dead leaves, stems, and other debris from your garden is crucial, as this organic matter can harbor diseases and pests.

To better prevent the spread of these pathogens, consider these tips:

• Organic fungicides: Apply copper or sulfur-based sprays to protect against fungal diseases like powdery mildew, blight, and rust.

• Beneficial bacteria and fungi: Use organisms like Bacillus subtilis or mycorrhizal fungi to outcompete harmful pathogens and support root health.

• Crop rotation and cover crops: Rotate crops to break disease cycles and plant cover crops, like clover or rye, to improve soil health and suppress disease.

• Sanitization: Clean and disinfect greenhouses, tools, and containers to remove lingering pathogens and prevent disease spread.

By incorporating these disease prevention strategies in the fall, you’ll create a cleaner, healthier growing environment for the spring. Reducing pathogen presence now will lead to fewer disease issues and healthier plants next season.

 
Clean Up and Planning for Next Season

Insect pests will be looking for a cozy spot to get through the winter. That means that you should eliminate these hiding spots as soon as possible. Pests will often hide under leaves, plant debris, rocks, or leaves. Clearing these away and disposing of them will eliminate any pests that are trying to get through the winter undisturbed.

Additionally, row covers can be an excellent tool to protect your plants from both pests and cold weather. 

They create a barrier that keeps pests like aphids, beetles, and moths from accessing your crops while also providing insulation.

Make sure to secure row covers tightly to prevent pests from sneaking in and damaging crops as the temperatures drop. This will help you maintain healthy fall plantings while protecting your soil for spring.

Every avid gardener gets through the winter by dreaming, scheming and planning what the next growing season will look like. As you plan out your garden, consider adding companion planting and crop rotation to your strategies in preventing pests from ruining your crops.

Alongside pest prevention, it’s important to create an environment that supports beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory wasps, which naturally help control pests. Planting flowers such as alyssum, yarrow, and dill in your garden can attract these helpful predators and provide them with food and shelter.

Preparing your garden or greenhouse in the fall is one of the most effective ways to prevent overwintering pests and set the stage for a healthier growing season. By taking proactive steps now, you can reduce pest pressure, support beneficial organisms, and give your plants the best chance for success in the spring.

With the right preparation now, you’ll enjoy a more productive, resilient garden in the seasons to come. Make sure to check out Arbico Organic’s full line of products to produce the best garden yet next year!

How Composting Helps Your Garden and the Environment

If you’re the type of person who is reading gardening articles on the internet, you’ve certainly heard of composting, even if you do not actively practice it. And it’s no surprise that you’re familiar with composting! 

It’s been around since humans began spreading manure on their cropland 5,000 years ago to boost plant growth. While composting still provides as many nutrients today as it did in early human civilizations; today, composting is more commonly associated with an environmentally conscious lifestyle.

As we all know, composting is a natural process that transforms organic waste into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. As you create this soil amendment, you’re also reducing waste and reducing your trash burden on your landfill. In 2019, a study completed by the EPA showed that only 5% of food waste was composted. Reverse, the numbers, and a staggering 95% of America’s compostable food waste is in our landfills.

Feeling guilty because you are part of the 95%? 

Don’t worry, 

Starting a compost pile is incredibly simple!

To create a compost pile, gather organic materials like:

KITCHEN SCRAPS

• produce cuttings
• coffee grounds
• eggshells

 

YARD WASTE 

• leaves
• grass clippings
• small branches
• newspaper
• cardboard. 

Layer these materials, alternating wet and dry components to maintain a balanced moisture content.

 
It’s important to note that traditional composting does require outdoor space, though your compost bin can be placed in either sun or shade. Turn the pile regularly to aerate the materials and speed up the decomposition process. A sunny spot will decompose faster than a shady spot. After several weeks or months, the compost will be dark, crumbly, and earthy smelling. Add this finished compost to your garden soil to improve its nutrient content and water-holding capacity.

While anyone can start composting at almost no cost, there are supplemental materials that can be purchased to improve your composting experience. We’ll highlight three of our favorites from ARBICO Organics below.


EM-1® Microbial Inoculant

Looking to speed up your composting? 

Adding additional microorganisms to your compost pile can help with this. 

EM-1 can be applied directly onto compost through a sprayer. Since your compost breaks down faster, this reduces breeding sites for insect pests attracted to decaying matter. 

SCD All Seasons Bokashi Indoor Composting
You’re familiar with composting at this point, but have you heard of bokashi? Like traditional composting, bokashi converts organic waste into a nutrition-rich soil amendment. However, there are drastic differences in how this soil amendment is created. Unlike composting, bokashi is an anaerobic process (it does not need oxygen). There is no decomposition in bokashi. Instead, bacteria ferment the waste. Finally, bokashi can be done indoors! Since there is no decomposition in bokashi, there are no strong smells. If your bokashi is smelling, that’s a sign that something has gone wrong, and you’ve reverted to traditional composting.

ARBICO’s EM•1 Bokashi is made with certified organic rice bran, Super C EM-X Ceramic powder, EM•1® Microbial Inoculant, and molasses. EM•1. The Microbial Inoculant helps balance the microbial ecology of the soil and supply nutrients to your garden. Using this product to recycle your kitchen waste helps your lawn and garden while reducing landfill inputs.

To learn more about the bokashi process read this article and check out the instructions tab on the product listing on ARBICO’s website.


ARBICO Organics® Red Composting Worm Mix

A lot of attention is given to microorganisms and imperceptible chemical reactions nowadays. However, sometimes the best thing for your soil and compost is something visible to the naked eye. This red composting worm mix contains three of nature’s most efficient soil aerators: Eisenia fetida, Eisenia hortensis, and Perionyx excavatus. Purchasing worms allows you to do double duty in your compost bin and your garden. Worms can speed up the decomposition of your compost and aerate your garden soil. If it is difficult for oxygen to penetrate your soil, the microorganisms in the soil will struggle to survive. This includes nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which play a critical role in delivering nitrogen to plant roots.

Whether you’re nervous about putting together your first compost bin or you’re a seasoned professional who has been composting for years, check out the composting and organic gardening supplies at our website - Robin @ ARBICO Organics

Understanding Annual & Perennial Plants and Why You Want Both in Your Garden

How familiar are you with the differences between annual and perennial plants? 

If you’re a seasoned grower, you’re familiar with the differences. However, if you’re just getting into gardening, it can be difficult to distinguish between these two types of plants.

The primary distinction is that annual plants complete their life cycle in a single growing season. From seed to full bloom, this type of plant comes with spring and dies with the frost. 

Perennials are able to overwinter successfully and will bloom again next growing season. If you’re thinking, why bother with annuals at this point, you’re asking the logical question. If you’re guaranteed to lose your flowers once winter hits, doesn’t it make more sense to buy a flower that will live for many years? 

Annuals offer several benefits that perennials do not. First, annuals have a longer blooming period than perennials and tend to have brighter, more vibrant flowers. Many annuals will bloom throughout summer while many perennials may only bloom in early summer. During the prime of a growing season, you can count on annuals to continuously brighten your garden. For some growers, color is the most important aspect of their garden, which leads them to prefer annuals. 

If you’re at the stage where you just want something to grow and aren’t as concerned with your garden’s color palette, don’t immediately default to perennials. Just because they are capable of living through the winter does not mean that perennials automatically survive. Many perennials need to be trimmed and pruned between growing seasons, while annual plants are more forgiving, usually only needing the typical water, fertilizer, and sunlight required by all plants.

If you’re looking to get your bearings, here’s a quick list of five common annuals and perennials:

Annuals

Petunias: Known for their vibrant colors and sweet fragrance. 

Marigolds: A classic choice for gardens, with a strong, earthy scent.

Zinnias: Available in a wide range of colors and sizes. 

Cosmos: A delicate and airy annual with a long blooming period.

Sunflowers: A cheerful and iconic annual with large, golden blooms.


Perennials

Daylilies: Known for their abundant blooms and ease of care.

Peonies: A classic perennial with large, fragrant flowers.

Lavender: A popular choice for its calming fragrance and beautiful purple blooms.

Hostas: A versatile perennial with striking foliage in various shades of green, blue, and yellow.

Black-eyed Susans: A cheerful perennial with bright yellow petals and dark brown centers.

We’ll end this article with a special mention of frost cloths. 

Frost cloths are a special type of fabric that protects plants from frost damage during cold nights. A frost cloth isn’t magic once there’s snow on the ground and nightly temperatures are regularly in the single digits, you can’t just place a frost cloth over some seeds and expect a bountiful harvest in a month. Instead, frost cloths allow you to extend your growing period past the first frost date (and you can also begin growing before the last frost date). This is especially valuable if you’re growing vegetables, as it increases the number of harvests in the growing season. 

For more info on frost cloths, check out this article. - Robin @ARBICO Organics

A Four Step Solution to Fly Control

If you raise horses or livestock, you’re familiar with flies. 

Too familiar, most likely. 

While a casual gardener will likely notice an increase in fly presence if they’re maintaining a compost pile, that pales in comparison to the struggles that ranchers undergo when dealing with fly populations. If you’re regularly working with horses and livestock and have struggled to keep your fly population under control, start by changing how you approach the issue. 

You can’t control a fly population by swooping in with a chemical “bomb”. 

Sure, you can kill a lot of flies with heavy application of pesticides, but a one-off, intensive coating of pesticide will only temporarily reduce a fly population. 

Instead, we recommend investing in a continuous 4-step control program to permanently solve your fly infestation. 

Flies breed in and are attracted to a variety of locations. 

Here’s a quick list to keep in mind while you read this article: 


Manure & Urination Areas: 

• Barns, stables, stalls, hospital pens, or loafing sheds

• Around corral posts, paddock areas and fence lines
• Around manure piles, pits, bins, or carts
• In kennel or coop areas
Watering & Feeding Areas:

• Under water troughs, near barrels, buckets
• Where spilling, dripping or leakage occurs
• Around bathing areas, drainage sites, and run-off areas
• Areas where feed, straw, or hay have decomposed
Other Fly-Breeding Areas:

• Around compost piles and family gardens
• Alongside garbage cans


The 4-Step Fly Control Program

1. Invest in a Form of Sustainable, Biological Population Control
Continuously spraying harsh chemicals will do little to solve the underlying issues that lead to explosions in fly populations. Additionally, if you’re using pesticides, you’re spraying them in barns, corrals, and other locations where horses and livestock spend time. The same chemicals that kill off flies can also cause skin irritation in horses. Prolonged exposure can lead to difficulty in breathing and digestion issues.

Try Fly Eliminators instead. Fly Eliminators are parasitic wasps that kill fly pupae. They’re not interested in humans or livestock, so there’s no worry of livestock experiencing the unintended consequences of heavy pesticide use. The Fly Eliminator will burrow into the fly pupae, killing it before it develops. Remember the fly hotspot list we previously provided? When first introducing Fly Eliminators to your ranch or garden, focus on these locations. Around the perimeter of these hotspots, make an indent in the ground with the heel of your shoe, then deposit a handful of eliminators in this indent before covering it with dirt or straw. Reapply every 3-4 weeks. If fly pupae are unavailable, the eliminators will simply die off.


2. Manure Control

Flies love manure so much because it provides their offspring with necessary nutrients while being poisonous to many birds and other common insect-eating predators. Flies find manure by its smell, and when you get the large piles that happen in a stable, you’re making it really easy for flies to find their preferred breeding ground. To accelerate the breakdown of manure, try using a product such as SCD Barn Kleaner.


3. Maggot Control
While Fly Eliminators do a great job of eliminating pupae, it’s important to have an answer for each stage of fly development, and those that come from maggots, or larvae, are the stage of a fly’s life cycle that precedes the pupae. Hister beetles or nematodes are natural predators of maggots who, like Fly Eliminators, don’t concern themselves with larger organisms. We’ve put together a separate article on nematodes, so check that out if you’re curious about the benefits that a healthy nematode population can have on pest management.


4. Adult Fly Control

No pest control is 100% effective, and there will be adult flies that make it past the
larval and pupal stages of development. A simple, non-chemical method of dealing with adult flies is to set up a solar fly trap. This will lure flies away from manure piles and into the baited trap. Once the flies are in the trap, they are baked alive by redirecting and focusing the heat of the sun. Setup is simple and takes seconds—check out this video if you want to see the solar fly trap in action. - Robin @ARBICO Organics

Marching and Munching: The Fall Armyworm Invasion

There's nothing worse than seeing a horde of fall armyworms mowing down that lawn you've been painstakingly trying to care for all year!

Fall armyworms (Spodoptera frugiperda) are a significant pest that can cause severe damage to lawns and turf, pastures, and grain crops. As a homeowner or lawn care professional, understanding how to identify, manage, and prevent these pests is crucial to maintaining healthy, vibrant lawns.

In this article, we'll learn about the life cycle of fall armyworms, how to identify them, recognize their damage in turf, and implement eco-friendly methods to control populations and prevent infestations.

Identification and Lifecycle

Fall armyworms are typically identified by their smooth bodies and distinctive, inverted "Y" marking on
their heads. The caterpillars can vary in color from green to brown to almost black, depending on their age and the environment. They also have a wide dark stripe that runs alongside their body. They can often grow to 1 to 1.5 inches long.

The lifecycle of the fall armyworm is divided into four stages: egg, caterpillar, pupa, and moth. They usually overwinter in more southern portions of the US as a pupa in the soil. As soil temperatures increase in the spring and early summer, the pupae will emerge as moths and begin migrating to northern locations.

In mid-summer, adults will mate, and females will lay eggs. A single female can lay upwards of 1,000 eggs, and it only takes 2-10 days for the eggs to hatch.

The caterpillars grow through 4 instar stages. They will feed day or night but are most active around dusk and dawn. If populations are large enough, the caterpillars can often crawl side by side, mowing down vegetation as they advance toward your lawn. That's where the name "armyworm" came from.

After 2-3 weeks of feeding, fall armyworms dig into the soil and pupate. Multiple generations can occur each year if conditions are right.

Understanding this lifecycle is key to effectively managing fall armyworm populations, as interventions can be timed to target the most vulnerable stages.

 
Damage and Symptoms
Fall armyworms can cause significant damage to lawns and turf, often before their presence is even noticed. Early instar larvae primarily feed on the upper leaf surfaces, creating "windowpane" effects where the leaf tissue is chewed away, but the lower epidermis remains. This type of damage may initially appear as small, translucent patches on the leaves and is typically not too severe.

The first three instars feed on the upper leaf surfaces, creating "windowpane" effects where the leaf tissue is chewed away, but the lower epidermis remains. This type of damage may initially appear as small, translucent patches on the leaves and is typically not too severe.

However, the last instar is where the caterpillars gain their appetite. Almost 85% of grass damage is done by this 4th instar!

The caterpillars consume entire leaves at this stage, often leaving behind only the stems. This can result in large patches of dead or dying grass, which may appear brown or tan.

Other symptoms of fall armyworm damage include irregular patches of thinning grass, frass (insect
droppings), and the caterpillars themselves. Identifying these symptoms early is crucial to implement control measures before significant damage occurs.

 
Eco-friendly Methods to Control
Controlling fall armyworm populations in an eco-friendly manner involves a combination of prevention, using organic insecticides, and encouraging natural predators. These methods help manage infestations and protect the environment and beneficial organisms.

 
Monitoring and Prevention
Regular monitoring is crucial for early detection and effective management of fall armyworms. Inspect your lawn during mid-summer and early fall, especially early morning or evening. Look for the characteristic "windowpane" damage on grass blades, frass, and caterpillars.

If you have a large lawn or yard, you can deploy pheromone traps to check when females are flying and if your control measures are working.

 
Organic Insecticides
Organic insecticides can be an effective and environmentally friendly option when intervention is

necessary. Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) are widely used against caterpillar pests, including fall armyworms. Bt is a natural bacterium that produces toxins harmful to specific insect larvae but is safe for humans, pets, and beneficial insects. However, keep in mind that Bt residues don't last more than two days on grass, so you'll need to spray frequently for good coverage and control.

Neem oil, another organic option, disrupts the life cycle of insects and deters feeding. It's important to follow the application instructions carefully and apply these treatments during the early larval stages for maximum effectiveness.

Additional insecticides include pyrethroids and spinosads; however, these are ineffective against larger fall armyworm caterpillars. Make sure to time this with their early hatching or growth stage.

 
Natural Predators
Encouraging natural predators in your lawn can provide long-term control of fall armyworm populations. Birds, predatory beetles, and parasitic wasps are some of the natural enemies of these caterpillars. Planting a diverse array of flowers and shrubs can attract these beneficial predators. Additionally, reducing broad-spectrum insecticides helps protect these natural allies, allowing them to thrive and naturally reduce pest populations.

Implementing these eco-friendly control methods helps manage fall armyworm infestations and promotes a healthy and sustainable lawn ecosystem.

 
Fall armyworms are a significant threat to lawns and turf, capable of causing extensive damage if left unchecked. Understanding their lifecycle and recognizing the symptoms of an infestation are crucial first steps in managing their numbers. If you are early to catch them and take action quickly, you can effectively manage and prevent infestations. - Grant @ARBICO Organics