Why It is Important to Test and Know Your Soil

You’ve likely heard something along the lines of, “Good soil makes good crops” if you’ve been gardening for any amount of time, but do you know what makes quality soil? And if you do understand what goes into good soil, do you know how to check if your soil measures up?

What is NPK?  What does NPK Stand For?

NPK is an initialism that stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These are the big three nutrients that are necessary for healthy soil. An excess or deficit of any of these three nutrients will result in improperly developed plants. At best, you’ll get reduced or inedible yields. At worst, all of your plants will die off. 

Each nutrient corresponds to a specific aspect of how plants develop:

• Nitrogen is commonly equated with the amount of “green” in one’s garden. Too little nitrogen will cause yellowing in leaves and stunted growth in the plant. Too much nitrogen will cause an excess of blooming, which quickly results in rot. Additionally, over-applying nitrogen will result in the excess nitrogen being washed away during rainfall. As this runoff flows into streams, ponds, and other bodies of water, it becomes extremely harmful to the environment. See ARBICO’s nitrogen solutions here. 

• Phosphorus plays a critical component in plant growth and development. A lack of phosphorus results in stunted, shallow roots, and spindly stems. A plant’s reproductive capabilities will also be inhibited if a plant has a phosphorus deficit. Phosphorus levels require proactive monitoring. By the time you notice the physical signs of a phosphorus deficit, it’s usually too late to save the plant. See ARBICO’s phosphorus solutions here. 

• Potassium benefits plant health and root strength. Proper potassium levels in the soil make crops more resistant to disease. Generally, proper phosphorus levels don’t need to be as high as the levels of nitrogen and phosphorus in your soil. If you’re growing plants that produce fruit, maintaining proper potassium levels can result in firmer and more flavorful fruit. See ARBICO’s potassium solutions here.

What about Soil pH?

Just like how each species of plant prefers different amounts of water and different temperatures, the preferred soil pH varies between plants. A perfectly neutral pH isn’t always the best. Typically, most plants do best when the soil is slightly acidic and between 6 and 6.5, though there are exceptions to this rule of thumb. For instance, blueberries do best when the soil has a distinctly acidic pH of 4.5, while asparagus actually needs a pH of 7 or slightly higher. Make sure that you check the pH of your soil before planting new seeds and continue to check it while planting to ensure that no imbalances have unexpectedly occurred.

Anything Else?

Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium aren’t the only nutrients necessary for healthy soil. Other trace elements play important roles in soil and plant health. Calcium keeps roots healthy and encourages the growth of root hairs, which are critical for absorbing water from the soil. Magnesium is a critical component in photosynthesis and keeping the chloroplasts in plant cells functional. Sulfur maintains the integrity of amino acid chains and helps with nitrogen intake.

The Basic Needs of Soil

In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, a proper pH level, and numerous trace elements, there are other aspects to healthy soil. The presence of organic matter is a critical part of healthy soil. Organic matter is composed of three categories: living, dead, and very dead. Living organic matter are creatures that live in the soil, such as earthworms and smaller microorganisms. Dead organic matter can range from fallen leaves to deceased organisms to manure. Very dead organic matter is also referred to as soil humus, and it is largely insulated from chemical change. Adding compost to your garden is a common way to maintain proper levels of organic matter in a controlled growing environment.

How to Test Soil

For an easy to use pH and NPK tester, try the Luster Leaf® Rapitest Soil Test Kit. 

Just take a sample of the soil 2-3 inches below the surface then mix with water.  Transfer the soil-water mix to the test chamber, then add the powder from the appropriate capsule (pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potassium). The mixture will change color—just match the color to the included guide to determine the pH or NPK level. 

Contributed by Robin @ ARBICO Organics. 

How and When Bugs Start Waking Up

During the winter, bugs disappear, only to reappear when spring comes around. What prompts these bugs to go back to life as normal? It’s not like an ant colony can set an alarm clock for 3 months, then pop back up to the surface when the alarm clock starts beeping. The simple answer to why insects become active again is warmer, more tolerable temperatures and the reemergence of food sources. Let’s quickly cover how insects survive a cold winter.

1. Migrate

Why bother with adapting to the cold when you can leave it far behind? This is limited to flying insects, such as butterflies and dragonflies, but this behavior isn’t exclusive to insects. Many species of birds, wildebeest, salmon, and snow birding retirees all undergo seasonal migrations.

2. Hibernate/Overwinter

These two adaptations are largely identical, and these adaptations are used by the majority of insects. Insects will enter a state where their metabolism is greatly reduced, and their bodies enter a state of dormancy. Many burrowing insects will burrow below the freeze line in the soil, further reducing the caloric demands to stay warm. Non-burrowing insects are often able to produce a chemical in their blood that functions similarly to antifreeze. Not all insects hibernate as mature adults. Some species, largely those with short adult lifespans, overwinter as larvae or pupae.

3. Take shelter! 

There’s no need to worry about the cold if it never gets cold. Common pests like cockroaches survive through the winter by invading your warm, climate-controlled home. Of course, cockroaches are more than happy to stay in your home throughout the rest of this year, but that’s a bit outside the scope of this article.

So, what time do insects wake up or 

return in your part of the USA? 

America does not have a uniform climate, and these disparities in weather affect the insects that live there. We’ll be referencing climate maps provided by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration for our regional breakdown. To keep things simple, we’re assuming that insects begin to overwinter at temperatures between 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember, unless your home’s heating system is broken, your home should never reach the 50-degree mark, which means that bugs invading your home won’t feel compelled to winterize. 

New England - States: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Vermont 

This is one of the most uniformly cold regions in the continental United States. The magic 50° mark is reached in April, with the northernmost state of Maine barely squeaking by. Still, bug populations will be active in full force come June. Insects will continue to be visible until October, where some species will begin to migrate or start preparations for hibernation. If insects aren’t prepared to overwinter by November, they’ll likely be killed by rapidly dropping temperatures. Cold temperatures remain through February before beginning a slow rise towards the 50-degree marker in March.

Mid-Atlantic - States: Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Washington D.C. West Virginia

The Mid-Atlantic is similar in climate to New England, though bugs come out a bit earlier and stay out a bit later in this region. Insects will begin emerging in late March and begin wintering in early November. Cold winds coming from the Atlantic coast can preemptively start this process in some insects, even if the actual temperature is still slightly above the 50-degree mark.

The South - States: Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee

We’ve mentioned climate-controlled houses several times already in this article to reinforce the point that if insects don’t sense the cold, they do not need to hibernate. This concept doesn’t cease to exist once you step away from a central heating system. In many parts of the American South, especially the deep South, bugs never really go away. Mosquitos can be a year-round phenomenon, and while they do get lazier during the traditional winter months, they’re always present.

The Midwest - States: Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, South Dakota, Wisconsin 

A fierce competitor with New England for the inglorious title of America’s coldest winters, the Midwest has the environmental gall to force its residents to endure much hotter summers than New England. The bug calendar is similar to New England, though pests tend to be more prevalent in the summer due to the hotter average temperature.

The Southwest - States: Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas

A similar climate to the South, though northern Arizona and New Mexico do have much colder winters. In this part of the USA, pests are more concerned about staying cool than overwintering, which means that they’re looking to invade your home for the air conditioning, not the heater.

The Rockies - States: Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Utah, Wyoming

The Rocky Mountains are no stranger to snow, and insects are rare in this area between October and April. However, insects can be found up and down the Rockies. Many species of insects are able to live comfortably at altitudes of 13,000 feet above sea level and higher. The highest peak in the Rocky Mountains, Mt. Elbert, is only 14,439 feet above sea level.

West Coast - States: California, Oregon, 

Washington
This geographic region crosses multiple lines of latitude, making it a diverse collection of climates. Southern California shares a climate with the Southwest, while Oregon and Washington are more temperate versions of the Rockies, which results in bugs staying active for longer.

Alaska - The simplest way to view Alaska is to cut it in half. Using the city of Fairbanks as the median marker, the land to the north of Fairbanks is too cold to support much insect life. However, the rest of the state has insects, though populations are prone to wild fluctuations due to sudden cold spikes or wetter than normal springs.

Hawaii - As Hawaii is a tropical climate, insects are active year-round. Ants, centipedes, and beetles routinely pester homeowners and put a damper on the beautiful weather.

Looking to fight off current winter home invaders? Feeling the need to prepare for April when insects start making their unwanted return? Check out ARBICO Organics selection of pest control products. Their product line up ranges from environmentally friendly solutions to common garden pests to biological powerhouses used in professional agriculture and at racetracks.

OMRI - What's this all about?!

Have you ever noticed an OMRI logo on a product  from us? 

It’s likely you have because these products have been evaluated for their suitability in producing organic end products and they align with our vision to offer products for organic growing! 

We even have products that we have had go through their rigorous vetting process like our ARBICO Organics OMRI Listed® Beneficial Nematodes! 

 

These products that they certify range from every kind of growing input from fertilizers to fungicides and more. These products serve to help make it easy and transparent for growers and gardeners alike to choose the type of products that best fit into their growing strategy. It also makes it possible for growers and gardeners to have certified organic end products should that be their goal. If you have ever been curious about this organization and what they provide, look no further! We have dug up the details for you and are pleased to share them with you! 

 

What is “OMRI” exactly and who are they?

• OMRI stands for Organic Materials Review Institute
• It is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization
• It was founded in 1997 by organic certifiers and stakeholders
• Vist their site to learn all about their history and mission here: www.omri.org

 

What does the OMRI organization do? 

• They provide an independent review of products intended for use in certified organic production, handling, and processing.
• They list these compliant products as “OMRI Listed®” and provide access to “OMRI Products Lists©”  for the public.
• They also provide information, education and training on the suitability of material inputs for organic requirements. 

 

How do they establish what products are “OMRI Listed®”?

• They review input product ingredients to establish if they comply with the USDA National Organic standards, the Canada Organic Regime (COR) standards and/or Mexican Organic Products Law (LPO)
• They review products such as fertilizers and pest control products for crop production, livestock feed ingredients and health care products, processing aids and sanitizers, and other materials intended for use in organic production.

 

OMRI just passed a major milestone by establishing 10,000 OMRI Listed® products reviewed and verified for organic use! 

Here at ARBICO Organics, our mission aligns to provide gardeners and growers with sustainable choices and the opportunity to grow organic and we are pleased to offer some of these amazing products! 

Check out our OMRI Listed® product page to see which ones are available for you to use!

How Insects Survive During Winter

Ever wondered about how bugs make it through the winter? 

It’s not uncommon to see a line of ants marching up the sidewalk in the summer, but you won’t see the same colony going up and down through snowbanks in the winter. You’d think that due to their small size, insects wouldn’t hold up well to cold weather. And you’re correct! 

Insects that do not have specific adaptations to deal with the cold can freeze to death in as little as 24 hours when exposed to freezing temperatures. This effect is compounded when you account for the fact that typical insect food (pollen, nectar, leaves, etc.) is no longer available in the winter. 

Yet come spring, all these insects are back out in full force with no noticeable decrease in numbers. 

So, what’s the trick? 

For some insects, like butterflies, the answer is to leave for warmer weather. 

These insects have no special resistance or adaptations to the cold, so their answer is to get away from it. Species of insects that migrate are butterflies, dragonflies, moths, and beetles.

Of course, wings are necessary for migration, and not every insect with wings chooses to migrate. What do the remainder do?

Hibernation is a common strategy for insects.

Burrowing deep into the soil, finding leaf litter,
crawling into a cave, and even going within your home! In fact, human homes are one of the easiest ways for an insect to survive the winter. After all, while the outside might be below freezing, your house is climate-controlled year round (Looking for more information on pests inside your home? Check out one of our previous articles). For insects unable to punch their ticket in your home, natural shelters reduce the severity of cold temperatures but do not remove them entirely. 

To survive the winter, insects must avoid having ice form within their cells. There are two methods for doing this: freeze avoidance and freeze tolerance. 

Freeze avoidance, as the name implies, means that the insect does everything it can to avoid getting frozen. To do this, freeze avoidant insects produce a chemical within their bodies that is virtually identical to antifreeze. Yes, the same antifreeze that you put in your car! This chemical keeps fluids circulating throughout the insect’s body even when temperatures are below freezing. Freeze avoidant insects will also produce proteins that bond with ice crystals forming inside their bodies and break them down.

Some insects don’t bother with exerting energy to prevent themselves from freezing. Instead, they’ve evolved freeze tolerance, which means that these insects allow themselves to freeze and cope with the formation of ice crystals in their bodies. This type of insect is commonly found in the Southern Hemisphere, likely due to the more severe swings in climate.

It’s difficult to imagine turning yourself into a popsicle for the winter then waking up just fine in the spring. What needs to happen so the insect doesn’t die? First, ice just doesn’t form anywhere. The insect keeps any freezing outside of its cells through the creation of ice nucleating proteins. These proteins attract ice crystals, causing them to form on the outside of the body instead of inside cells. Freeze tolerant insects also attract water into their bodies. This prevents ice crystals from extracting water from the insect’s cells.

Finally, one of the most common winter adaptation strategies for insects isn’t necessarily what we’d think of as an adaptation. Countless species of short-lived insects don’t even live for one month in ideal weather. If this is the case, why evolve to live through the most difficult part of the year? Instead, these insects lay eggs before dying out in the fall. Once warmer weather appears, these eggs are triggered to hatch, as warm weather implies the existence of food for the larvae.

Regardless of how they do it, insects will find a way to make it through the winter. Even if you don’t see them when there’s snow on the ground, know that they’ll be back in the spring.

Robin @ ARBICO Organics

Two Winter Pests That Invade Your Home

New Year's has come and gone, and several parts of the USA already have snow on the ground. For all practical purposes, winter is here. And while you’re rummaging through your closet wondering where you left your pair of winter gloves, various types of pests are trying to get out of the cold.

A quick note: Rats and mice are common trespassers during winter months, and they can definitely wreak havoc on a home, but they aren’t the focus of this article. 

Instead, we’ll be focused on insect pests, specifically ants and cockroaches.

Ants are notorious for being persistent invaders during every season. Many ants retreat into their burrows and enter a dormant state during cold periods, but not all of them. Some ant species, such as the stink ant (also known as the odorous house ant), can move indoors to escape the cold. When ants feel cold weather, they respond by instinctively searching out warm places. Though this is traditionally an ant burrow, almost any species of ant is happy to substitute a climate-controlled home. Whether it’s food or warmth, ants will seek it out and can enter homes through minuscule cracks and openings. Though ants do not pose an immediate health risk, their presence can be a nuisance, and some ant species can cause damage to property. Plus, an ant colony definitely produces a distinct smell!

Do you already have ant problems? Take a look at the EcoSmart® Ant & Roach Killer Spray. It uses natural and essential oils to kill ants on contact. These oils also do a great job of taking care of lingering smells after you’ve taken care of the colony.

During the winter, ants largely only enter human homes for warmth and consider the food that they find a natural bonus. However, cockroaches are a completely different story. They are attracted to not only warmth, but also moisture, food, and refuse. This tendency only increases in winter. Different types of cockroaches prefer different environments. Here’s a quick breakdown of common cockroach species found in residential homes across America.

German Cockroach

This is one of the most common species of cockroach, and it's what likely comes to mind when you visualize a cockroach. It’s found across the entire world, and the only factor that limits its population growth is cold weather. This aversion to cold weather means that cockroaches are naturally attracted to human homes and dwellings. And they’ve made it work. German cockroaches are usually found in kitchens, bathrooms, or food storage areas, even in areas as far north as Nunavut, Canada. If you spot one, know that it cannot fly away. Though German cockroaches have wings, they can only glide short distances.

Brown-Banded Cockroach
This species is smaller than the German cockroach, though it’s not a noticeable difference to the naked eye. Also like the German cockroach, the brown-banded cockroach prefers warmth. A noticeable difference is the brown-banded cockroach’s' inclination to settle in high elevations. It’s not uncommon to find them in upper cabinets, on top of refrigerators, and in attics.

Oriental Cockroach
This bug is also referred to as the black cockroach due to its dark coloration. This type of cockroach prefers moist environments and tends to settle in basements, crawl spaces, around leaky water pipes, in bathrooms, and in places with fungal infections. All cockroaches can spread disease, but oriental cockroaches are among the worst. Take extra care to exterminate them if you notice these bugs in your home.

Thankfully, all species of cockroach can be controlled similarly. 

There are simple steps you can take, such as sealing entry points with caulk or weather stripping, keeping a clean environment, working with a plumber to seal leaky pipes, and making sure your food is secured -- including the food that’s thrown in your trash can and any pet food you use for your furry friends. If you’re dealing with an infestation, try using Avenger® Roach Tablets. Just drop them where cockroaches gather then check back in a day. Cockroaches are drawn to these tablets and will die once they ingest them.

By: Robin @ ARBICO Organics

How to Eliminate Pests in a Fall Greenhouse

It’s November, which means that the last dregs of fall are fading fast. US growers in zones three and four have likely already experienced some freezing temperatures overnight. Wherever you are, temperatures are dropping, which means that garden pests are looking for a place to take shelter and get away from the cold. 

Unfortunately for you, your greenhouse is the perfect place for pests to shack up for the winter!

Regardless of what you do, a greenhouse will inevitably attract pests during the colder months. By definition, a greenhouse is warm, climate-controlled, and usually has a high humidity level relative to the outdoor environment. Don’t fret! There are ways to minimize pest attraction and manage existing infestations.

Get Rid of Dead Plant Matter

Truthfully, the best time to clean a greenhouse for winter is in September or October, but November is a good case of better late than never. Look at your forecast and select the warmest, sunniest day possible (even if those are in increasingly short supply in the northern US) for cleaning. Before you clear out your greenhouse, check any plants that will be overwintered in the greenhouse. Are they looking healthy? 

If you need to prune away unhealthy or dead branches/stems, now is the time to do it.

Once your plants are pruned, move everything outside. You’ll inevitably have some dead plant matter on the ground, and you’ll likely have bits of mold tucked into the dark corners of your greenhouse. Grab a hose and spray it down! After power washing away the obvious plant matter, apply a cleaner to the structure of the greenhouse. Make sure to pay attention to corners and recesses that offer shade - these areas are hotspots for pest breeding and fungus. Windowsills are another area to focus on.

Tip: Check out SaniDate® All Purpose Disinfectant for a reliable all-purpose cleaner. 

After you’ve applied the cleaner, make sure to wait at least 15 minutes to air the greenhouse out before bringing plants back in.

Seal and Secure

During the cleaning process, keep an eye out for noticeable gaps in your greenhouse structure. Simple repairs on a plastic frame can be done with greenhouse repair tape, which will also be labeled as a polyethylene tape. Make sure the tape is UV resistant. 

If the damage is too severe, we recommend talking with professionals to determine your next step. Some greenhouses you can simply replace one wall, while others might require a complete refitting. As common sense implies, sealing up your greenhouse limits the amount of entry points for pests.

Keep Plants Apart
It can be tempting to fill your greenhouse to the brim during the winter months. After all, where else are you going to grow? However, putting too many plants in your greenhouse can lead to more harm than good. Pests can easily move from plant to plant when leaves from two plants overlap. A single pest can multiply rapidly in an overcrowded greenhouse.

Fight Back!
Keeping your greenhouse free of plant matter and sealed up tight does a great job at preventing most winter infestations, but insects are called pests for a reason. They have a nasty habit of showing up exactly where you don’t want them. When pests do breach your first line of defense, make sure you’re equipped to fight back. Aphids are a pest no matter what time of the year, and they’re more than happy to invade your warm greenhouse.

Sticky Traps are a greenhouse essential when it comes to monitoring pest populations. However, to keep pests like aphids under control, check out biological pest control, such as the green lacewing. Keep in mind that green lacewings are most effective in a setting with temperatures between 67-90 degrees F and relative humidity of at least 30%.

From Robin @ARBICO Organics

How to Eliminate Fungus Gnats

Gardeners across America are gearing up for the winter growing season in their greenhouses or scrambling to bring their potted plants indoors before the first frost hits. 

Unfortunately for these gardeners, the winter season also means that fungus gnats are ready to throw a baby shower. They’re using your plants as the venue, and they’re not going to stop with just one baby shower. Like most pests, fungus gnats breed quickly and can devastate your garden if left unchecked. 

So how do you deal with fungus gnats?

KNOW SOME FACTS: Fungus gnats have a reputation as winter pests, but they don’t exclusively operate in the winter. They’re active year-round, but fungus gnats have unusually high tolerance to cold for an insect. Some species even have antifreeze proteins, which allows the bug to stay alive and somewhat active throughout the winter, instead of remaining in an egg like other insect pests.

Thankfully, despite the fungus gnat’s high cold tolerance, fully mature members are not all that threatening. In fact, they’re largely passive. Adult fungus gnats are poor fliers. What limited flight they have is more analogous to extended, meandering hopping rather than the precise flight exhibited by a housefly. The adults cannot eat any part of your plant. In fact, adult fungus gnats cannot eat any solid food. They live out their 10-day lifespans on a liquid-only diet of water and plant nectar (if they can easily access it.)

However, adult female fungus gnats can lay over 300 eggs during their brief lifespan. And while the adults are nuisances, the larvae are actual pests to your plants. Fungus gnat larvae will eat through plant roots and leave plants highly susceptible to root rot. With their rapid breeding cycles, fungus gnats can quickly overrun a greenhouse if you aren’t paying attention.

TRY THESE 3 STEPS TO FUNGUS GNAT CONTROL:

1) AVOID CONDITIONS FUNGUS GNATS LOVE  

Soggy, overwatered soil is a fungus gnat’s favorite place to start a family. Eggs and larvae like to hang out in the first couple of inches of soil, so make sure that your topsoil stays dry between watering. To keep topsoil dry, try watering at the root of the plants. While you can go all out and use a drip irrigation system if you have a large grow operation, there are ways to water generic potted plants at the root. Check your pot. Does it have any holes in it along the bottom? If it does, place the pot in a large container. Water the container itself and watch as the water is sucked up through the holes in the bottom of your pot.

 2) ELIMINATE EGGS AND LARVAE 

You don’t want to search for eggs and larvae manually. These things are tiny and often buried under an inch of topsoil. Instead, track your pest control efforts by monitoring the adult population (more on this in the next section). Of course, it’s not unusual to see a fungus gnat eggs and larvae, though both are near microscopic. Eggs are tiny white dots while larvae have black heads, white-to-translucent bodies, and are about ¼ inch long when fully grown. If you see one, just know that many more are likely just below the initial topsoil layer.

To control egg and larvae populations, use a spray, such as the BONIDE® Captain Jack's™ Neem Max or maintain a population of fungus gnat predators in your soil, such as beneficial nematodes.


3) ELIMINATE MATURE POPULATIONS TO PREVENT FUTURE ONES

Since adult fungus gnats aren’t a threat beyond their egg laying capabilities, using normal fly/sticky paper is sufficient to control populations. Fungus gnats are very weak fliers, so making minimal contact with the adhesive is enough to immobilize the adult. Make sure you get yellow sticky paper—this color attracts the most fungus gnats. A bonus of using fly paper is that you can monitor adult population levels over time. 

Once new adults stop getting stuck to the fly paper, you’re on the path towards wiping out your unwanted winter gardening guests.

By: Robin @ ARBICO Organics