Thrips – How to Protect Your Plants from These Quiet Destroyers

Tube-Tailed Thrips (Phlaeothripidae) in the Center of a Hibiscus Flower

Thrips are tiny, silent plant suckers that can become highly destructive to a garden or greenhouse if left unchecked. Despite their small size, they can do quite a bit of damage as they feed on the more tender parts of plants, including buds, flowers, and new leaves. 

However, not all thrips species are bad. Some can be beneficial, such as preying on other thrips, spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies.

This article aims to provide a comprehensive guide on managing and preventing thrips infestations in an eco-friendly manner.

In this article, you will learn:

• The life cycle of thrips and their impact on plants.
• Early detection techniques for better thrips control.
• Effective strategies to manage and prevent thrips infestations.

Let’s begin by exploring the life cycle of thrips, which is key to effective management.

  Identification and Life Cycle  

Even though thrips are small, they can still be easily identified. They have a uniquely thin body and sometimes have frail-looking wings with feathery fringes. Identifying species can be extremely difficult, but the host plant can often help determine what species of thrips you are dealing with. Even though thrips are hemimetabolous insects, meaning their larval stages look similar to their adult form, they still have four distinct stages:

Egg Stage: 

Thrips Larva

Thrips lay their eggs inside plant tissue, which makes them difficult to detect. The microscopic eggs can be found within the leaves, buds, and stems. 

Larval Stages: After hatching, the larvae immediately feed on plant cells. They are usually white or yellow. 

Pupal Stage: Before becoming adults, thrips enter a pupal stage. This stage often occurs in the soil or hidden within plant debris, making it easy for them to go unnoticed. Some species of thrips will create a cell from silk webbing and pupate inside the cell.

Adult Stage: Adult thrips are mobile and can quickly spread to other plants. They reproduce rapidly, laying more eggs and perpetuating the cycle. Depending on the season and environmental factors, they are both winged and wingless versions of adults.

 
  Damage and Symptoms  

Thrips Damage

Thrips cause damage by piercing plant cells and sucking out their contents. Because
their damage often looks like nutrient deficiencies, the underlying cause can go unnoticed, prolonging the damage and stunting growth.

Silvering of Leaves: As thrips feed, they create silvery or bronze streaks on the leaves, eventually leading to browning and death of the leaf tissue.

Deformed Flowers and Fruits: Thrips feeding on buds and flowers can cause them to deform and grow abnormally, reducing the aesthetic and market value of ornamental plants and fruits.

Stunted Plant Growth: Heavy infestations can stunt plant growth, leading to poor plant health and reduced yields.

Physical Evidence: Besides visual damage, you might notice tiny black fecal spots on the leaves, another indicator of thrips presence.

 
  Monitoring and Trapping  

It’s important to stay vigilant when it comes to inspecting your plants. If you are bringing new plants to your greenhouse or garden, carefully check them for any existing thrips infestations.

You can also use blue or yellow sticky cards to monitor for signs of thrips. Thrips are attracted to these colors and will get stuck on the glue.

 
  Biological Controls  

Leveraging natural predators and beneficial insects can help keep thrips populations in check:

Predatory Mites: Introduce predatory mites, such as Amblyseius cucumeris or Amblyseius swirskii, which feed on thrips larvae. For best results, release before thrips become a serious issue as establishment can take 6-8 weeks.

Natural Predators: By creating suitable habitat for natural predators, you can keep thrips from exploding in growth. Lacewing larvae, minute pirate bugs, and ladybugs are voracious predators of thrips. Release them into your garden or greenhouse to control thrips naturally.

Beneficial Nematodes: To disrupt thrips in the soil, use nematodes to interrupt reproduction and reduce local populations.

 
  Organic Insecticides  

When necessary, use organic insecticides to manage thrips populations. Some effective options include:

Neem Oil: Neem oil disrupts the growth and reproduction of thrips. Apply neem oil as a foliar spray to target both adults and larvae. It can be used before releasing beneficial insects and suppresses foliar diseases like powdery mildew.

Insecticidal Soaps: Insecticidal soaps can effectively reduce thrips populations by suffocating them. Ensure thorough coverage of the plant, especially the undersides of leaves.

Pyrethrin-Based Products: Pyrethrins are natural insecticides derived from chrysanthemum flowers. They are effective against thrips but should be used sparingly to minimize impact on beneficial insects.

Azadirachtin: This spray works like neem oil and can be combined with pyrethrin. Use as a thrips control spray for severe infestations.

PFR-97: This insect-killing fungus has shown great results in controlling thrips and other soft-bodied insects, especially in greenhouses or indoors. It poses minimal risks to beneficial insects and is compatible with most other pesticides.

Thrips can be silent yet destructive pests in your garden or greenhouse. Understanding their lifecycle and impact is the first step toward effective management. By implementing eco-friendly strategies, you can control and prevent thrips infestations while maintaining a healthy garden environment.

By staying vigilant and employing these techniques, you can keep thrips at bay and enjoy a thriving garden all season long.

From Grant @ ARBICO Organics

Focusing on Drought Resistance Products for a Changing World

The world is getting hotter, and water is getting scarcer. US government agencies, such as the NCEI and NOAA, have declared that 2023 was the hottest average global temperature on record, with records dating back to 1850. 

Much of the American West faces water shortages, with important freshwater sources such as Lake Mead and the Colorado River being measured at record lows.

While it’s easy to feel like the world is changing in ways that are out of your immediate control, don’t let this keep you from finding peace in your garden. Don’t worry, we get it. Progress has been made to combat the effects of climate change, but these noticeable differences in our climate are here to stay. 

So even if you’re dealing with water rationing or prolonged periods of above average heat, there are ways to reduce drought stress on your plants. In our changing world, water is a powerful resource. Support your plants by giving them the tools to use water more efficiently and withstand environmental stressors.


LALSTIM OSMO

LALSTIM OSMO is an osmoprotectant that helps plants withstand drought conditions by improving their drought resistance. “OSMO” is derived from osmosis, which is the passive movement of water molecules from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration through a semipermeable membrane. If you hated high school biology, don’t worry. Here’s the practical definition when it comes to gardening. If your plants are in drought conditions, water will naturally be drawn from your plant’s cells into the atmosphere because there is more water in your plant than in the surrounding air. 

Osmoprotectants such as LALSTIM OSMO increase the survival rate of plants in drought conditions by regulating the osmotic activity in the cell and allowing the plant to retain more water. Current research aims to create plants that will produce their own osmoprotectants through gene editing, but for now you’ll have to add osmoprotectants to your plants by spraying them with LALSTIM OSMO.

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.


Hydretain®

This is a product that is applied directly to the roots of your plants. Spray it into the soil, and then water to force the Hydretain down towards the roots. This product optimizes the intake of water by your plant’s root system through proprietary humectants (substances that attract water), which minimizes drought stress. 

Hydretain first found use in large scale farms and golf courses where cutting water costs would save farmers and golf course owners significant amounts of money. Now, this product is finding a niche with small-scale growers and hobby gardeners who wish to reduce their water usage due to local shortages or just for the sake of being good environmental stewards.

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.


Mikro-H2O

Like all of the products on this list, Mikro-H2O deals with managing water intake and helping your plants cope with an ever-warming world. What sets Mikro-H2O apart is its use of rhizobacteria to assist with water management. 

Rhizobacteria are commonly known for their nitrogen fixing capabilities, converting gaseous nitrogen into ammonia, and making necessary nitrogen accessible to plants. However, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens and Bacillus subtilis, the two types of rhizobacteria used in Mikro-H2O, also build biofilm around the root zone.This biofilm increases the surface area of the plant's root structure, which leads to improved water structure, less evaporation, improved nutrient availability, and reduced fertilizer drainage. 

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.


Therm X-70®

Have you heard of the Mojave yucca?

This plant is native to the deserts of Southwest America. It survives in this harsh, dry climate through the use of saponin, which helps plants overcome water stress and increases the “stickiness” of applied fertilizers. Sometimes, the best way to help the plants in your garden adapt to dry and stressful conditions is to mimic plants that have evolved to live in deserts. 

Therm X-70 increases permeability in heavy clay soil while also reducing salt and alkalinity levels. If you’re panicking because your plants already are showing signs of heat damage, applying Therm X-70 to the stressed areas can yield immediate, noticeable results and put your garden on a path to recovery.

Interested in this product? Learn more and purchase here.

From Robin @ARBICO Organics

Squash Vine Borers – The Best Hide and Seek Players in Your Garden

Squash Vine Borer Larva

Squash vine borers have figured out how to drive gardeners and growers crazy. Their sneaky and hidden ways can devastate all your squash plants before you realize it’s too late. Even when you realize you have a problem, they are already inside the stems of your squash plants, and there is little you can do to save your plants.

However, there is hope in preventing them from destroying this year’s bounty of squash. This article offers proven, eco-friendly methods to prevent these pests from ruining your squash crops.

We’ll learn more about:

• The life cycle of squash vine borers
• Effective strategies to keep them out of our squash
• Early detection techniques for better management

Let’s begin by exploring the life cycle of squash vine borers, which is key to effective management.

Squash Vine Borer: Lifecycle and Impact

Identification and Lifecycle

Adult Squash Vine Borer

Adults are colorful moths that emerge from the soil in the end of spring. The moths have metallic green forewings and clear hindwings that are often folded and tucked away when they land.

Females will lay their eggs in early spring at the base of squash plants. Approximately one week later, these eggs hatch, and the larvae immediately burrow into the plant stems. Inside, they begin consuming the core, disrupting water flow and causing the leaves to wilt. Severe damage can result in the death of the plant.

After feeding for 4-6 weeks, the squash vine borer drills a hole out of the stem, and will pupate in the soil. It stays in its cozy cocoon until the next spring or summer. Most squash vine borers will only have one generation each year. However, populations in the south can often have two.

Damage and Symptoms

Squash Vine Borer Damage

It’s often hard to tell that you have a problem, until the damage is done. The biggest sign is that your squash plants are all-of-sudden wilting. This will begin happening in full sun, and if the problem isn’t corrected, you should see the wilting in the mornings too.

Look for bore holes at the base of plants, along with sawdust-like frass (or insect feces). The base of the plant may start to rot or feel soft. If you notice these symptoms, then you need to start treatment options and prevention for next year’s squash.

Eco-friendly Methods to Control Squash Vine Borer Populations

It can seem daunting to prevent or kill squash vine borers. However, with a few proactive strategies, you can keep your squash in full production for longer.

Monitoring and Trapping

Before you start planning out your treatment strategies against squash vine borers, it’s important you know you have a problem first. Begin by setting out pheromone traps for adult moths. These lures can also be helpful in reducing the number of eggs laid on your squash plants. It’s also been shown that using pheromone traps can reduce the amount of pesticides used to control squash vine borers.

Exclusion

Sometimes you can’t catch all the female moths ready to lay eggs. However, you can prevent them from getting to your squash plants. Row covers will prevent females from getting access to the base of your plants and prevent them from laying eggs.

You can also wrap the base of each individual plant with aluminum foil or panty house to prevent larvae from burrowing into the stems.

Organic Insecticides

Organic treatments such as spinosad, azadirachtin, and Beauveria bassiana have been used effectively to control squash vine borer populations. These organic insecticides significantly reduce infestation levels, providing a robust defense against squash vine borers while adhering to organic agricultural standards.

However, these are only effective against adult moths and won’t affect larvae once they are inside the squash plant.

Bacillus thuringiensis

Bacillus thuringiensis is a very effective treatment against moth and butterfly pests. You can even use it against larvae that have already dug into a stem. You will need to inject the Bt product into the stem or applied as a foliar spray. This can be an effective way to treat squash vine borers once they are already growing in your plants.  

Nematodes

Another interesting tactic is to target the pupating moths that are in the ground. To do that, you can use a beneficial nematode product. The nematodes will seek out any pupae in the ground and infect them. This is a great way to prevent any new outbreaks of squash vine borer.

Conclusion

Squash vine borers can be tricky to control if you don’t get the timing of their emergence and egg-laying just right. Even if you aren’t 100% effective in stopping egg laying, there are still a few options to keep your squash harvest abundant this year. - Grant @ ARBICO Organics

How to Control Grubs - The Sneaky Lawn Pest!

Grubs are the larva of various types of beetles and chafers, such as the Japanese beetle or European chafer. 

You’re likely concerned about them because of the potential damage they can do to your lawn. 

While both grubs and adults can cause damage to your plant, the biggest problem is actually the fact that grubs and chafers are prey for a variety of animals, including moles, skunks, and raccoons. These creatures will tear up your lawn to get to the grubs, quickly turning your grass into a field of potholes.  

Before investing time and resources into curtailing your grub problem, double check

that the issue actually is grubs! 

• To see if your yard or garden has a grub problem, dig out a section of dirt using a shovel. This should be around 2-inches deep. 

• Parse through the dirt to discover the white, C-shaped grubs. They’re usually under an inch long. 

• Finding one grub doesn’t mean that you need to sound the alarm. Grubs and beetles are part of our natural ecosystem after all. However, if you’re finding an overwhelming amount of grubs in your samples, it’s time to take action.  

Nematodes

Nematodes are some of the best biological control agents on the market. They’re effective at eliminating grubs, though they are ineffective against adult beetles. Application of beneficial nematodes is simple. First, make sure that the soil is moist since nematodes require a moist environment. They are applied with the substrate they come in, just mix with water and apply to soil. See this link for more information. Apply the nematodes to the moist soil in the late afternoon. You can use a sprayer or a sprinkler-style watering can to do so. Depending on the severity of the infestation, multiple applications may be needed so continue to monitor for signs of damage and be prepared to reapply if needed.

 

Milky Spore

 

While beneficial nematodes are capable of eliminating a wide variety of insect pests, milky spore is a specific, bacteria-based form of pest control. If you’re using milky spore, you’re focused on getting rid of Japanese beetle grubs. The ideal time for soil application is in late July or early August. This is when the grubs are closest to the surface of the soil and feeding on your plant roots. While they’re biting into roots, the grubs will also ingest milky spore bacteria. Once this happens, the bacteria begin to rapidly multiply, killing the grub within 3 weeks. As the grub decomposes, the multiplying bacteria are released back into the soil to infect new grubs. 

 

Milky spore is very harmful to Japanese beetle grubs, but has no effect on various beneficial insects, household pets, or humans. 

 

Due Diligence

 

Keeping a healthy lawn goes a long way towards eliminating grub infestations and preventing noticeable grub damage. A healthy lawn that receives regular rainfall (or is artificially supplied with water through an irrigation system) will have much stronger roots. Keeping the grass trimmed at 3-4 inches can also strengthen the root system of your grass. Cutting grass below 3 inches can cause root stress, which in turn results in a higher susceptibility to grub damage. Of course, a proper fertilizing routine goes a long way too! 

 

Robin - @ ARBICO Organics

 

Grasshoppers – How to Protect Your Garden and Farm with Eco-Friendly Tactics

When conditions are right, grasshoppers can unexpectedly become a big problem for growers. But what are your options to effectively control outbreaks?

Let's explore some effective strategies for managing grasshopper populations in your garden or farm without relying on harmful pesticides. In this article, we'll cover:

• The lifecycle and habits of grasshoppers that make them pests.
• Natural and eco-friendly methods to control grasshopper populations.

Grasshopper Life Cycle and Their Impact

Grasshoppers are closely related to crickets and katydids. What sets them apart from their jumping cousins is their ability to quickly grow into pest status and destroy forage and crops in farms and gardens. A large part of their threat stems from their eating habits; they can consume half their body weight in plants each day, making them a formidable foe for any grower. 

The lifecycle of a grasshopper plays a crucial 

role in its pest behavior. 

Starting from eggs laid in soil, they progress through several nymph stages before becoming adults. This process can take a few months; the bigger they get, the more damage they do. 

A warm spring and a hot, dry summer are ideal conditions for a boom in a grasshopper population. Dry conditions limit fungal diseases that normally curb their numbers, while warm temperatures accelerate the hatching and growth of nymphs.

Understanding these aspects of grasshopper biology and behavior is key to managing their populations effectively. The sooner actions are taken, the better your chance of minimizing damage. 

Natural and Eco-friendly Grasshopper Control Methods
Several natural and eco-friendly strategies can be employed to manage grasshopper populations effectively while minimizing environmental impact. These methods not only target grasshoppers but also support maintaining the ecological balance in your garden or farm.

Azadirachtin: Extracted from the neem tree, azadirachtin acts as a growth regulator for grasshoppers, disrupting their lifecycle and reducing their ability to reproduce. It's safe for use around beneficial insects and animals, making it an ideal choice for organic gardening and farming. Research has shown that azadirachtin prevents nymphs from shedding their skin and impacts the reproductive organs of males and females. Check out AzaGuard for both repellent and control treatment. 

Pyrethrins: Derived from chrysanthemum flowers, pyrethrins are fast-acting
insecticides that target the nervous system of grasshoppers. They break down quickly in the environment, reducing the risk of long-term residue. A product like PyGanic is available as a spray and comes in multiple volumes for the weekend gardener or full-time farmer.

 
Nosema locustae: This naturally occurring microsporidian fungus targets grasshoppers and some locust species. When ingested, it causes a disease that can significantly reduce grasshopper populations. Typically, the spores are added to a wheat bran bait that can be broadcast into an area. The grasshoppers eat the bait, along with the spores. However, products such as NOLO Bait and Semaspore are currently unavailable. The manufacturer's factory burned to the ground, and production is extremely limited. 

Beauveria bassiana: This fungus acts as a biological insecticide by infecting and killing grasshoppers. It's applied as a spore-coated formulation with which grasshoppers ingest or come into contact with. The fungus then grows inside the grasshopper, killing it, and it's particularly useful in managing large populations. Certain strains of the fungus can be more effective on specific species. It's available as a liquid under two product names:  Mycotrol O and Botanigard ES. Or, you can use it in a wettable powder.

Garlic Spray: While research on the effectiveness of a garlic barrier spray is still
lacking, there is a study that suggests it not only acts as a repellent but can also kill grasshoppers.

 
Cultural Methods:

• Prescribed Burns: Carefully managed burns can eliminate grasshopper eggs and reduce plant material that serves as food for nymphs and adults. This method requires precise timing and safety precautions to prevent unintended damage.

• Mowing: Regular mowing reduces habitat and food sources for grasshoppers, making the area less attractive for them to lay eggs.

• Trap Crops: Planting trap crops around the perimeter of your main crop can lure grasshoppers away, concentrating them in a specific area where they can be more easily managed with the above methods.

Conclusion

Grasshoppers are a difficult pest to manage, even with traditional pesticide applications. However, it's clear that there are alternative solutions that can be just as effective. Utilizing botanical insecticides, biological controls, and strategic cultural practices offers a sustainable path forward in managing grasshopper populations.  - Grant @ARBICO Organics

Three Generalist Insect Predators you Need to Know!

Are you worried about pests in your garden? 

Are you even more worried about constantly needing to spray harsh pesticides on your plants to control pest populations? 

There are alternate ways to keep harmful insects away from your plants.

One of the best methods for managing pest populations is keeping a healthy population of generalist insect predators in your garden!

Maintaining a population of generalist predators, also commonly referred to as “good insects”, is a commonsense solution to pest infestations. After all, the goal of pest control is to kill off harmful insects. 

While pesticides accomplish this through chemical methods, a predator eating its prey ends up with the same result. However, there is an important difference between pesticides and generalist insect predators: the effect they have on your plants. 

Pesticides can have negative effects on plants, unintentionally harming the plants they’re supposed to preserve. Generalist predators eat only insects, which means that there’s no need to worry about one of them taking a bite out of a plant leaf.

Here’s some quick information on various types of generalist insect predators:

1. Minute Pirate Bug

Minute Pirate Bug Consuming Prey

Minute pirate bugs primarily feed on small insects such as aphids, thrips, spider mites, and other soft-bodied pests. They do well in diverse gardens that provide shelter and nectar for the pirate bugs. Marigolds, daisies, and other flowering plants will keep your pirate bug population happy and thriving. Another notable characteristic of minute pirate bugs is their quick reproduction time: their life cycle is just 3-4 weeks long.

Add minute pirate bugs to your garden at ARBICO Organics.

2. Green Lacewings

Lacewing Larva Consuming Aphids

Lacewings are beloved by gardeners because they devour soft-bodied pests and do not eat plants.

 

Though lacewings will happily eat any type of soft-bodied insects, they are primarily used as a means of aphid control in agriculture. 

Lacewing Adult

When comparing the lacewing to another good insect, the ladybug, lacewings consume more aphids per day. 

However, ladybugs tend to keep wide habitats and will not stay put in your garden. Lacewings are happy to stay in a smaller range.

Interested in getting lacewings for your garden? ARBICO has your back.

3. Praying Mantids

Young Praying Mantis

Mantids are the kings of generalist predators. They will happily eat common garden scourges such as aphids, mosquitoes, and caterpillars, and they will also eat insect eggs. However, mantids will also eat beneficial insects and other generalist predators such as lacewings, ladybugs, and butterflies. When using praying mantids in your garden, be sure to monitor their population level.

Establish a mantid population by buying eggs from ARBICO Organics. 

Not sure what generalist predator is best for you? Give us a call! Our team of specialists will be happy to help you select the best method of control for your pest issue! Find out how to reach us here!

Why It is Important to Test and Know Your Soil

You’ve likely heard something along the lines of, “Good soil makes good crops” if you’ve been gardening for any amount of time, but do you know what makes quality soil? And if you do understand what goes into good soil, do you know how to check if your soil measures up?

What is NPK?  What does NPK Stand For?

NPK is an initialism that stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These are the big three nutrients that are necessary for healthy soil. An excess or deficit of any of these three nutrients will result in improperly developed plants. At best, you’ll get reduced or inedible yields. At worst, all of your plants will die off. 

Each nutrient corresponds to a specific aspect of how plants develop:

• Nitrogen is commonly equated with the amount of “green” in one’s garden. Too little nitrogen will cause yellowing in leaves and stunted growth in the plant. Too much nitrogen will cause an excess of blooming, which quickly results in rot. Additionally, over-applying nitrogen will result in the excess nitrogen being washed away during rainfall. As this runoff flows into streams, ponds, and other bodies of water, it becomes extremely harmful to the environment. See ARBICO’s nitrogen solutions here. 

• Phosphorus plays a critical component in plant growth and development. A lack of phosphorus results in stunted, shallow roots, and spindly stems. A plant’s reproductive capabilities will also be inhibited if a plant has a phosphorus deficit. Phosphorus levels require proactive monitoring. By the time you notice the physical signs of a phosphorus deficit, it’s usually too late to save the plant. See ARBICO’s phosphorus solutions here. 

• Potassium benefits plant health and root strength. Proper potassium levels in the soil make crops more resistant to disease. Generally, proper phosphorus levels don’t need to be as high as the levels of nitrogen and phosphorus in your soil. If you’re growing plants that produce fruit, maintaining proper potassium levels can result in firmer and more flavorful fruit. See ARBICO’s potassium solutions here.

What about Soil pH?

Just like how each species of plant prefers different amounts of water and different temperatures, the preferred soil pH varies between plants. A perfectly neutral pH isn’t always the best. Typically, most plants do best when the soil is slightly acidic and between 6 and 6.5, though there are exceptions to this rule of thumb. For instance, blueberries do best when the soil has a distinctly acidic pH of 4.5, while asparagus actually needs a pH of 7 or slightly higher. Make sure that you check the pH of your soil before planting new seeds and continue to check it while planting to ensure that no imbalances have unexpectedly occurred.

Anything Else?

Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium aren’t the only nutrients necessary for healthy soil. Other trace elements play important roles in soil and plant health. Calcium keeps roots healthy and encourages the growth of root hairs, which are critical for absorbing water from the soil. Magnesium is a critical component in photosynthesis and keeping the chloroplasts in plant cells functional. Sulfur maintains the integrity of amino acid chains and helps with nitrogen intake.

The Basic Needs of Soil

In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, a proper pH level, and numerous trace elements, there are other aspects to healthy soil. The presence of organic matter is a critical part of healthy soil. Organic matter is composed of three categories: living, dead, and very dead. Living organic matter are creatures that live in the soil, such as earthworms and smaller microorganisms. Dead organic matter can range from fallen leaves to deceased organisms to manure. Very dead organic matter is also referred to as soil humus, and it is largely insulated from chemical change. Adding compost to your garden is a common way to maintain proper levels of organic matter in a controlled growing environment.

How to Test Soil

For an easy to use pH and NPK tester, try the Luster Leaf® Rapitest Soil Test Kit. 

Just take a sample of the soil 2-3 inches below the surface then mix with water.  Transfer the soil-water mix to the test chamber, then add the powder from the appropriate capsule (pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potassium). The mixture will change color—just match the color to the included guide to determine the pH or NPK level. 

Contributed by Robin @ ARBICO Organics.