It's Time To Start Watering Smarter

It’s summer and every year this season gets more intense – hotter, drier, wetter, or all of these things (which is what we’ve had in southern Arizona). Unfortunately, with the lack of public will and clear-cut actionable solutions, these climate-change effects are with us to stay. Which means it’s time to re-evaluate how we water.

I recently spent some time house-sitting for a family member who has some substantial plantings around the property. When I began my sojourn there, we were experiencing extreme heat and the watering chores were focused on dealing with that. But within a few days, we had some intensely powerful monsoon storms, the ground was waterlogged, and flash floods were happening. This sudden change made my caretaking duties less obvious and more stressful. To water or not to water was and continues to be the big question. Luckily, there are answers, especially in a well-though-out watering plan. 

All watering strategies should come from an understanding that water resources are finite and the only way to maintain a healthy garden long-term is by using less water. Or by watering smarter. Many municipalities (especially in the drought-stricken West) have or are considering putting restrictions on water use, so you will be ahead of the game when planning to water properly but less. The mantra to follow should be: “Water as much as needed while using as little as possible”. To that end, here are some guidelines:

 - HOW TO WATER - 

WATER EARLY IN THE MORNING, OR MAYBE IN THE EVENING – Watering in the daytime is simply wasteful as you lose a good bit of it to evaporation, especially in summer. Here in Arizona, we discourage evening watering because that is when water use is at its highest. But it can be done safely then or even later at night due to our dry conditions. In more humid climates, you run the risk of welcoming disease if your plants are put to bed with wet leaves. These are also favorable conditions for snails to make themselves at home. It’s probably best to just water in the morning – and in the hottest places this can be as early as before dawn. 

MULCH AND MULCH SOME MORE – Where possible, add mulch around your plants to help hold water in, reduce runoff, and lower the surface soil temperature. Avoid coco peat, however, as it will hold the water and makes a soggy mess that can encourage disease. 

WATER SLOWLY, DEEPLY AND THOROUGHLY – You don’t want to squander water on leaves where it will evaporate rapidly, especially since plants need water most in their root zones. In general, water needs to move 6”-12” into the soil to get to the roots and this can take more than a couple of minutes, so soak slowly (soaker hoses work well when monitored carefully). Or water some, walk away and water elsewhere, and then come back to water more. Watering deep in the soil encourages plant roots to grow down, creating stronger and healthier root systems.  In our recent storms, a lot of large trees have fallen and many of these were the victims of quick and shallow watering. They had responded to this type of watering by developing wide-spread, surface level roots that aren’t able to hold up to heavy rain or strong winds. 

USE A WATERING CAN AND NOT A HOSE – 

I realize that this may not be practical in all situations, but it’s a good strategy to use when you are able. A watering can delivers targeted water where you want it with less spray lost to mist. The use of a well-placed soaker hose is an exception to this rule. 

 - HOW MUCH WATER TO USE – 

YOU SHOULD PROBABLY BE USING LESS WATER THAN YOU ARE – According to this EPA article, landscaping typically requires one inch of water a week. But that seems rather arbitrary to me and definitely too much in many circumstances. Rather than seeking a way to make sense of the amount of water you use, it’s far better to consider ways to cut down. Xeriscape practices have been popular in southern Arizona for decades but is no longer just for desert communities. With xeriscaping you can have the beautiful landscaping you want – with less yard maintenance - while reducing water and fertilizer usage, embracing native species, and improving the soil.

STRETCH YOUR RAIN RESOURCES – People have been using grey water on gardens since gardens were invented and it’s still a good idea. Collecting and harvesting rainwater is also nothing new, but surprisingly few people take advantage of this literal gift from the heavens. Although they are nice, you do not need a fancy collection system; you can start small with buckets or something similar (just be sure to use the water and not let it sit and become a mosquito breeding ground). If your rainstorm is a gentle one, push your container plants out so they can get the good stuff straight from the sky. Lightning-packed rain events can be a little terrifying, but they offer more than water as the lightning can help deliver nitrogen into the soil (and your plants love that). That doesn’t mean that you should go out amongst lightning strikes to put out your favorite potted plant, but it does mean that what you have growing out there is appreciating the charge they’re getting. If you have recently received a lot of rainfall, do not continue to water as usual, wait until the soil has dried out. Turn off the irrigation and re-evaluate. This especially true in arid places where plants are adapted to dry soil. Keep in mind that over-watering can kill as surely as too little watering can.

The bottom line is we all have to use less water. It’s that simple. However, we still need plants in our world, so it’s on us to figure out as individuals the best way to manage our small part of the world. If everyone was a careful steward of their tiny part, the whole world would grow healthier and stronger. So, when you save a little rainwater, think of yourself as an environmental crusader – you have to start somewhere.

Take Care

Submitted by Pam

 

It’s Not Too Late To Prevent Summer Diseases!

The warmth and humidity that comes with summer creates the perfect conditions for plant diseases to thrive. Poor soil fertility, unbalanced environmental conditions and pest infestations are all channels that invite fungi, viruses and bacteria to weaken or kill plants. You can get ahead of these problems by actively choosing preventative solutions, even at the height of summer. Some of these biorational solutions actually work best when used pro-actively to suppress diseases. Now is a great time to treat before a problem becomes a crisis! 

Biorational solutions (those utilizing beneficial or symbiotic fungi and bacteria) are an economical and highly effective option against a wide range of foliar and soil diseases. You will get the best possible results before the onset of symptoms, but if symptoms are already present, simply begin treatment as soon as possible. 

We offer many choices in biorationals here at ARBICO Organics, including:

• Trichoderma harzianum, strain T-22. This patented fungus utilizes several methods to suppress fungal diseases. Principally, it forms a physical bond with the root system of the plants to establish itself in the root zone and thereby prevent other pathogens from colonizing the soil. The RootShield® line of products has this fungus as its active ingredient. They are all OMRI Listed and come in a variety of formulations and sizes to best suit your personal needs.
• RootShield Granules 
• RootShield Plus Granules
• RootShield WP
• RootShield Plus WP

Stressing over spider mites? Learn how easy it can be to get control of this pest in 5 easy steps.

Spider mites are a sworn enemy to growers and can cause great damage and stress. 

But why fret when there are simple ways to make controlling and combating these pests easy? 

Easy? Yes!  If you take the rights steps, are proactive and have the necessary tools, you can manage spider mites and do it without chemicals.

These five steps will help you see how simple spider mite control really is:

1) Be prepared. Keep an eye on susceptible crops. While this might seem obvious, noticing changes in your plants’ health can be a great marker to alert you before an infestation sets in. Healthy plants have higher brix levels and are less likely to attract pests. In addition, avoiding growing conditions such as tight container spacing and drought stress will reduce susceptibility. 

2) Know what spider mite damage looks like. Damage on plants can include small yellow-brown spots on leaves (stippling), curling, leaf drop and the telltale spider sign, webbing. Seeing these pests with the naked eye is difficult as they are small, but not impossible. If you don’t have access to a microscope, place a piece of white paper under affected leaves and gently shake them. If you see what looks like reddish-brown specs of pepper on you paper, you’ve got mites! 

Spider mite damage on plant

3) If you can, identify what type of spider mite you have. This will help you to better select the right control measures. This can be a tricky task, and a tool such as the Active Eye Microscope can be helpful to have on hand. If you aren’t sure what kind they are, give us a call and our consultants will be glad to help you!

4) Let the battle begin. If you can suffer the loss, the best measure for control would be to remove and dispose of the affected plant or plant tissue. Of course, this is rarely an option so that’s when we suggest you bring out the “big guns” – sanitation, growing condition supports, knock-down insecticides and beneficial insects. Let’s break down this strategy and show you a path to successful control:

• Sanitation: This is an easily overlooked step. Wash all surfaces of your growing areas. When planting, choose organic, locally-sourced soil mediums and inspect plants for mites before planting.

• Boost optimal growing conditions: Support your plants’ health to aid them in the fight! Reduce water and nutrient stresses by boosting absorption with a product like Therm X-70. Organic fertilizers break down slowly and help to avoid nutrient-based stress. 

• Knockdown & Chemical Control: Treat existing spider mite populations with organic knockdown sprays if allowed. Naturally derived insecticide sprays like Neem Oil, Pyrethrins, Azadirachtin and Horticultural Oil can be sprayed directly onto adult mites, larvae, nymphs and eggs to kill on contact. Repeat applications at 3-day intervals until control is achieved. Horticultural oils can also be applied to overwintering sites to reduce egg populations the following season. Do not apply oil sprays to plants in high temperatures (>80°) or intense lighting.

P. persimilis attacking pest mite

• Biological Control: Ideal for spider mite control during flowering. Introduce Beneficial Insects after knocking down spider mites for continued control. Green lacewing and ladybugs are helpful, but spider mite predators are best (P. persimilis, N. californicus). Match your growing conditions with the mite predators’ optimal conditions and time releases with other integrated pest management approaches.

5) Enjoy your success and continue to monitor pest populations. Keep an eye out for insect enemies, then relax knowing that you have all the tools at hand to win the next battle. Controlling spider mites can be easy if you are prepared! 

Rest assured knowing that ARBICO Organics is your ally in this and we are always ready to assist you with all your growing needs! 

- Contributed by Aurora @ ARBICO Organics

Three Sisters: Origin & Wisdom of Companion Planting

According to Iroquois legend, three women miraculously sprang from Sky Woman’s daughter. These women, known as the physical and spiritual sustainers of life came to be represented by corn, beans, and squash. These three plants were a gift from Sky Woman that provided the main food supply to sustain their culture.